Archives A Timely Perspective

Off the Cuff: Color Me Mine, Technomarine’s Cruise Steel Camouflage

For the past few weeks I have been wearing the Technomarine Cruise Steel Camouflage watch. Since I don’t hunt or fish, and since I very much love color, I elected to wear the royal purple version of the timepiece. However, it does come in army green, desert sand or ocean blue. Naturally the green and tan camo versions are much more suited to the great outdoors. However, I must say, once we put the issue of color aside, the Technomarine watch has come a long way since its inception nearly 14 years ago – especially now under new ownership and management.

This new version — Cruise Sport Camouflage – is an especially cool example of function and style. Available in either steel, black PVD, or pink gold PVD (my model), it is bold, powerful and noticeable. The royal purple version that I’ve been wearing is a 40mm chronograph offering hour, minute, second and date function at 4:00. It houses a Swiss Ronda 5040D quartz movement and is water resistant to 200 meters. It features a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, unidirectional rotating bezel and goldplated indexes.

It functioned perfectly while swimming (I timed my 30 laps and didn’t do as good as I would have liked – but the watch did fine), raking acorns (which is literally a pain in the neck where I live because we get dozens of wheelbarrows full of acorns. So again, I timed the event—it took longer than swimming by a long shot). And for me, the purple camo blended perfectly with my very purple wardrobe – proving the timepiece’s camouflage abilities.

My only complaint is the date aperture is slightly too small. For $795 retail, though, it offers a great look and is a head-turner. I got lots of comments on it from men and women alike – most of them a nod first to the color and then to the camo appeal.

Around the World – Boutique Blitz on Madison Ave

Timepiece lovers who favor the intimacy of watch boutiques have no shortage of options in New York; but lately, these upscale designs seem to be undergoing a revival.
Need proof? Stroll no further than Madison Avenue starting at 60^th Street, and head north to the mid 70’s. The gang’s all here in fashion and jewelry with a Judith Ripka meets Giorgio Armani kind of vibe. David Yurman just moved from a smaller store on Madison to a sprawling three-story townhouse a few buildings down, and more recently Ralph Lauren unveiled its flagship store at 888 Madison, which includes a watch and jewelry boutique. At a recent “Ralph Lauren 4D” event, Ralph Lauren executed a high-tech light show that used advanced video mapping technology to project gigantic images onto the façade of its men’s store across the street, including an image of the Ralph Lauren Stirrup watch in rose gold.
Watch brands are not missing the block party Hublot is slated to open right next door to Hermes this fall near 62^nd Street, and construction is also underway for Vacheron Constantin, which touts a 2011 opening at Madison and 64^th. They’ll join other luxury watch purveyors on the avenue, including Chopard, Chanel, Breguet (which is opening another Boutique next month), Blancpain and F.P. Journe, which just celebrated its first year in its über-modern boutique at 721 Madison.
These luxury merchants are stepping up their watch games, too, on this world’s finest shopping street where exclusivity is the norm. Chopard just released two new limited-edition Mille Miglias, which pay homage to the famous Italian car race, and are designed exclusively for its 709 Madison Avenue flagship boutique. The Mille Miglia GTXL Chrono ($9,180) and Grand Turismo 709 Madison ($7,340) are limited to 50 pieces each and feature black DLC cases, rubber bracelets that mimic car tires and black dials accented with Chopard’s “corporate blue.”
Meanwhile, Richard Mille is feting the grand opening of the OC Concept Store at 655 Madison (so decadent it has its own caviar bar!) with a 10-piece limited edition of the RM 016 OC Concept in white gold ($70,000). It’s Mille’s thinnest watch yet, just 8.25 mm, with a skeletonized dial, hot pink numerals and the OC Concept store logo at 3:00 and date aperture at 7:00.
In typical New York style, the fun doesn’t stop on Madison Ave. Watch brands are rolling out boutiques elsewhere and trendy 57^th street will soon have a Breitling Boutique in its midst. More coming? You bet….

Time Capsules: News – Win a Watch – a Chronoswiss watch

I may own a few watches – but I can always go for another one – especially a fine Swiss one. Couldn’t you? Independent, family-owned watch manufacturer Chronoswiss has announced its 2010 edition of the Chronoswiss Holiday Sweepstakes in the United States. Running now through December 31, 2010, watch lovers can vie to win the stainless steel Sirius Ref. CH 1023 from the Sirius line that was just unveiled in the US market. The watch is valued at $4,900.
This watch houses a hand-wound movement Cal. C.111 in a 40mm finely brushed and polished case with sapphire crystal and caseback. It features a silver dial and is water resistant to 30 meters. The sweepstakes also offers a chance to win a limited edition Fountain pen Styloscope, valued at $880, and a few other prizes.
“We want to share one of our watches with a lucky winner of this Holiday Sweepstakes,” says Hartmut Kraft, president of Chronoswiss, North America. “We are looking back on a tremendously successful 2010.”
To enter go to www.ch-na.com. You have to answer a couple of very fast questions –but it’s worth it if you win.
Good Luck.

Weekend Sojourn: Fire and Iceland

It wasn’t too long ago that the raging volcano in Iceland stopped world air traffic and held many captive in airports all over Europe. That active volcano is the source of heat for the tiny island of Iceland – and its amazing geysers and famed Blue Lagoon. When I was in Reykjavik, capital of Iceland (on a trip with Piaget), I recognized how volatile, and beautiful, a land it is.
I had the good fortune to travel there in winter – a time when I would advise anyone to go– to experience its true elements. Billed as the warm country of the north thanks to its force of geothermal energy, Iceland is rich with ravage, awe-inspiring scenery. This island – once linked to Europe and North America – is home to a climate that changes moment to moment, to volcanoes that churn constantly, to geysers and hot springs, and to forces of nature seen nowhere else on earth. Within a 15-minute time frame in winter, the weather can go from snowing to rain, sleet and clear skies. At this time of year, the sun rises at around 10 am and sets about 5 pm. This is the time of year that – out away from the city, you can view the northern lights. Sadly, I didn’t get to see them – but still I fell in love with the country.
Iceland was formed by magma, spewing from the rift caused by the slow separation of the American and European continental plates. It comes as no surprise then that top among the land’s treasures is the Blue Lagoon, a lake of geothermal brine amid jagged lava fields where visitors indulge in steamy water rich with cleansing nutrients. Acting as a natural spa, the Blue Lagoon is a traveler’s haven, sensational for the mind and spirit. To indulge in the warm waters, take in the snow-capped lava fields surrounding the lake, have snowflakes fall upon your head and still be immersed in the lava-warmed waters is a MUST experience.
Other Iceland musts: Pingvellir National Park- a UNESCO site, which lies within a belt of volcanic activity and fissures that run across the country. Located at the western end of a rift valley of the mid-Atlantic Ridge where the earth’s crust subsides and diverges, Pingvellir’s Continental rift can be walked along – like walking a part of history; Gullfoss (Golden) waterfalls, where the Hvita River plunges into a 200-foot deep gorge much like Niagara Falls; the wonderful geysers such as Strokkur in the Southwest corner of the country that spews forth water and steam thanks to the heated lava below. (By the way, “geyser” is an Icelandic word that has been adopted by the rest of the world.)

Time Capsules: News — Grand Prix de Horlogerie Announces Winners

Animation at the Grand Prix de horlogerieI must admit a couple of things before I launch into the announcement of what brands and timepieces won the 10^th annual Grand Prix de Horlogerie awards – held tonight in Geneva and live-streamed at 12:30 EST, USA. First, I Loved that http://www.worldtempus.com/ live-streamed the event. Thank you. Second, I’m afraid I missed a great deal of the fanfare, as everyone spoke in French when presenting and accepting the awards – despite the fact that there was a beautiful translator standing by. But I understand the concept – “When in Rome … “ or, in this case, Geneva …
Be that as it may, I’d like to say that – vicariously – it was a wonderful event chocked with emotion, animation, entertainment (the dancing chorus girls were a bid iffy) and even serious tribute. I, and I am sure the rest of the watch world, appreciated the honors paid to the late Nicholas G. Hayek, and the late Dr. Luigi (Gino) Macaluso. Bravo.
Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk Commemorative Edition won the Sport categorySo, dispensing with the rest of the fanfare – the winners of the 10^th annual prestigious event were fairly predictable – bar one. This year, there were two non-Swiss nominations that made it to the competition. In the Design & Concept category, Devon watch (from America) was nominated, and Seiko made it into two categories. In fact, the Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk Commemorative Edition watch won the Sport category tonight, beating the Richard Mille RM 027 Tourbillon and the Zenith El Primero Striking 10^th.
TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber 1887 Chrono won the Under 5000 CHF categoryThis year also marked the introduction of a new category: Watches under 5000CHF. The final three runners up were TAG Heuer, Montblanc (Star 4810 Chrono Automatic) and Vulcain (Nautical), with the winner being the TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber 1887 Chrono. This watch was unveiled to the world in Basel in March, but won’t make its way to stores until early 2011. It retails for $4,300.
The Grand Prize — the L’Aiguiller d’ Or — most special of all — went to Greubel-Forsey for its Double Tourbillon 30 Edition Historiques gold timepiece. The watch is a superb rendition of excellence inside and out (and deserves its own moment in the sun -so watch for more details in the coming days).
MB&F Horological Machine No. 4, Thunderbolt won the Design categoryOther winners, voted upon by a panel of collectors, watchmaking experts and journalists, include:
Design & Concept: MB&F Horological Machine No. 4, Thunderbolt
Ladies Watches: Van Cleef & Arpels The Pont des Amoureux
Haute Joaillerie: Chopard High Jewellery Owl Watch
High Complication: F.P. Journe Chronometre a Resonance
Chopard Haute Joaillerie Owl WatchAnd then there were a few special winners, including: Vacheron Constantin won the Public award (for a traveling global exhibition of 17 special watches), and AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants which the Jury Award, an Jean Francois Mojon who won the best watchmaker of the year honor.

Stephen Forsey accepting L’Aiguiller d’Or award for Greubel-Forsey The winners of tonight’s 10th Grand Prix

Max Busser accepting the MB&F Design award

Time Capsules: Product — Seiko’s Grand Style

Today’s the big day – the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève occurs at the Grand Theatre de Geneve. It is the annual award for some of the best watchmaking in the world. This year, one company included on the list of selections in the Men’s Watch category may come at first as a surprise: Seiko. But a little further digging into the Grand Seiko 50th Anniversary Commemorative Edition Spring Drive watch on the list, and the Grand Seiko collection in general makes this not such a surprising entry.
For many years – 50 to be exact — Seiko fans needed to travel to Japan to see a live watch from its famed Grand Seiko collection. The largely mechanical line is the firm’s highest-priced (starting at $4,400 and going well over $7,000) and represents its efforts to create watches with the highest precision and the strictest manufacturing standards in the world.
These luxury watches were born in 1960 just a few years after the firm decided to create what it called the “perfect timepiece.” In 1956 the Seiko Marvel became Japan’s most accurate watch ever, as determined by the Central Institute of Weights and Measures. Determined to beat that title in accuracy, Seiko launched Grand Seiko, which in fact was designed to standards that exceeded the requirements for Swiss COSC chronometer certification. Grand Seiko is still built to exceed the COSC standards (tested in 6 positions instead of 5, under 2 temperature variations instead of 1 and for 17 days rather than 15 days, among other things).
This year Seiko collectors can finally buy Grand Seiko watches in the United States, and in a couple of other countries. For now only three retailers will carry an eight-watch selection in their stores, but consumers can order any Grand Seiko watch from the collection and await its delivery from Japan. Among the more coveted models coming to the US are Spring Drives (including a chronograph, GMT and dive watch) and mechanicals, including a top-notch HI-BEAT 36000, with an escapement that vibrates at 36,000 beat per hour, which very few brands offer. (Zenith, of course, has the 36,000 vph movement.)
Each watch is finished to outlandishly high standards and to attain extreme accuracy. The components include mainsprings made from Spron alloys exclusive to Seiko and designed to give more torque and shock resistance. Curved sapphire crystals, five-point diamond-cut hands and markers and other elements make the watch worthy of the Grand name. http://www.grand-seiko.com/
My Thoughts: The Grand Seiko collection offers solid high-end casing and time-proven movement technology with classic styling. No gimmicks here and no model is larger than an average wrist can balance comfortably. And the value here is strong: Given the $4,400
starting price for the mechanical models with in-house calibers that beat the COSC standards.

Time Capsules: Product – Perrelet Jets Ahead with its Turbine XL

Looking for a little substance in time? Maybe a nice blend of futuristic feel and historical appeal? Well, you just might find it in this all new Perrelet Turbine XL. A massive 50mm watch, this timepiece is the second generation of the Perrelet Turbine that made its way onto the scene in early 2010 as a 43-1/2mm watch. Now, in addition to the larger size and more brazen stance, the titanium turbine blades on the Turbine XL have been changed to look more like that jet engine from which the watch takes its inspiration. The aeronautically designed watch — offered in high-tech DLC, or in titanium and DLC – offers a stealth look for a brand whose roots date back to 1777.
Abraham-Louis Perrelet is credited with inventing the automatic watch in 1777. As such, the brand today only creates automatic movements, and focuses on offering unusual presentations such as its signature Double Rotor watch, which it developed and patented in 1995. The Caliber P-181 (built on an ETA 2292 kit) features automatic winding and offers two rotors — one on the dial side, and one on the movement side. The watch offers 40 hours of power reserve, houses 21 rubies and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It is water resistant to 5 atm. Naturally there is a sapphire caseback for viewing the movement and second rotor.
The Turbine XL is offered in three striking versions on black rubber strap: DLC steel (Diamond Light Coating) at $6,650 retail; titanium and DLC steel at $6,000 retail. These two models feature a choice of dials options: black with either green (my personal favorite), orange, or white luminous numerals or indices. There is also a limited edition of 77 pieces built in rose gold and DLC steel for $25,900 retail.
“The plan for Perrelet is to move forward with our unique Double Rotor watches that recall our history, but in a distinctive manner that appeals to a younger customer who understands a fine watch,” says Michael Goldstein, head of Perrelet in the USA.
Perrelet refers to its use of Diamond Like Carbon as Diamond Light Coating, but the concept and process is the same, as is the result – a hardness of 4000 to 5000 HV (Vickers). Essentially, it is a non-scratchable diamond coating deposited on titanium or steel via an ionic bombardment under vacuum. The DLC coating is a 1 micron thick deposit of carbon. The Turbine is not the first watch Perrelet has used DLC for, but it is the first full collection. http://www.perrelet.com/.

Time Capsules: Product – Panerai Pioneers into the Composite World, Again

Known for its daring spirit and adventurous soul – not to mention its worthy Swiss craftsmanship and bold Italian heritage – Panerai has created watches for the Italian Navy, underwater frogmen, and adventurer Mike Horn as he recently trekked across all the continents. The brand is regularly on the leading edge when it comes to watch instruments and high-tech materials.
As such, it came as no surprise to me when I heard last year that Panerai was venturing into the world of high-tech synthetic ceramics. Afterall — this is Panerai — the submersible, right? In 2010, Panerai launched the Radiomir Composit 339 with mechanical movement, which seemed to be a sterling attraction for Paneristi fans. Today, the brand announced its intentions to release the Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic Composite (R) at the upcoming SIHH 2011. The 44mm watch is larger, easier to read, and houses the Panerai P 9000 Automatic movement – but we’ll come back to that in a minute. First, for those who don’t know, let me explain the Panerai Composite(R). It is created via an electro-chemical process that transforms aluminium particles, making the material extremely light-weight, but at the same time incredibly hard and durable. The matte finish that results from the process is not only technically advanced, but also distinctive in color and appeal. The entire Luminor 1950 case, integrated bezel and trademarked bridge protecting the winding crown, is executed in the material. As one would expect from Panerai – it is water resistant to 300 meters.
The newest Composite(R) watch features a dial of dual super-imposed layers in brown, with Super-LumiNova(R) to form easily readable markers and numbers. In Panerai style, the watch is equipped with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a smoked sapphire caseback for viewing of the P9000 automatic movement (that has been designed and built at the Panerai manufacture in Neuchatel). The movement consists of 197 parts, including an Inca bloc(R) anti-shock device and two spring barrels that power the watch for three days of reserve. It offers a date function and small seconds. It is accented with an antique brown leather strap – making it a rich presentation, as well as a high-tech animation. Pricing isnt yet established. www.panerai.com

Time Capsules: News – Still Wondering "Where Have You Gone Joe DiMaggio?"

No more asking that question… watch loving baseball fans be on the lookout – and get your wallets open. Antiquorum Auctioneers is looking forward to its’ December 8^th auction to be held at its US headquarters in New York City. Not a New Yorker? No worries – you can register to bid on line, too, or by phone. (http://www.antiquorum.com/how-to-buy/)
Three special timepieces formerly belonging to Joe DiMaggio are coming up on the block at this auction. One of the most exciting Joltin’ Joe piece is the Longines wristwatch, circa 1940s. The rectangular 14-karat pink gold and diamond watch is accompanied by a photograph of Joe DiMaggio wearing it. Its estimated value is $5,000 to $7,000. Also being offered is DiMaggio’s Wittnauer pocket watch – made in 1952 for the World Championship of the New York Yankees – and engraved as such on the caseback, along with the Yankee logo. This watch is valued at $3,000 to $5,000. There is also a 1973 Imexal clock going up for bids (valued at $2,000 to $5,000) that was presented to Joe DiMaggio for the Casey Stengel Award in January 1974.
This comprehensive sale, which encompasses an impressive collection of 356 vintage and modern watches, also includes several other extremely rare pieces.

If you’re a Rolex lover, you may want to open your wallet wider and go after the Rolex GMT-Master, Ref. 6542, that belonged to Don Walsh – Lieutenant of the US Navy and Officer-in-Charge who piloted in the Bathyscaphe Trieste with Jacques Piccard to the Marianas Trench, for which he was gifted the Rolex in April 1960. The watch, circa 1958, is a two-time zone center seconds piece that is accompanied by the original 1960 letter from Rolex, the book “Seven Miles Down: The story of the bathyscaph Trieste” by Jacques Piccard; an original 1960 copy of Life Magazine with the Trieste on the cover; and a host of other important materials, documents and photographs. The watch and materials is valued at $20,000 to $30,000.

This may be the time to start wondering … What’s in your wallet? http://www.antiquorum.com/