In 2011, which is just around the corner, Jaeger-LeCoultre will celebrate the 80th anniversary of the famed Reverso watch. This watch – one of my all-time personal favorites – was developed in 1931 at the request of British polo players in the India Army, who were looking for a watch that could withstand the games. Theirs had been broken enough times. This was the beginning of the story of the Reverso, and of the partnership of Jaeger and LeCoultre, who came together to build the now-famous reversible case to protect the dial and crystal. (To read more on the Jaeger, LeCoultre and Reverso story, click here.)
The first Reverso (meaning “I turn around” in Latin) watches had simple metal casebacks on the reverse sides of the dial and crystal, as these timepieces were dedicated to this sport.
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Later versions, however, became beautifully decorated and subsequent models showed a secondary dial, as the Reverso graduated from a polo tool to a truly iconic signature timepiece. Still, as the brand prepares to celebrate the 80th birthday of this legendary watch, it begins a series of events to recall the polo relationship that is at its roots.
This week in Argentina –one of the supreme lands for this sport — Jaeger-LeCoultre took part in a polo charity match, along with its Argentina polo ambassadors who are wearing the newest versions of the Reverso – the Squadra.
World Chronograph Polo FieldAdolfo Cambiaso, with a handicap of 10, is wearing the Squadra Hometime Reverso, engraved with an Argentinean flag.
Eduardo Novillo Astrada, who started playing polo at age 6, wears the first-ever ceramic Reverso watch, the Reverso Squadra World Chronograph Polo Field. The watch shows local time and chronograph on the front dial and world time on the back dial. The 366-part movement is protected by a black ceramic 50-part case with 18-karat pink gold swivels.
On November 29th, Jaeger-LeCoultre held a special charity polo match with star players in Buenos Aires at Hurlingham Polo Club. For every goal scored during the match, Jaeger-LeCoultre donated funds to the Christian Family Polo Movement, an organization supporting the schools for children coming from low-income families in greater Buenos Aires. Celebrities participating included Novillo Astrada,
Lia Salvo, Gabriel Iglesias, Juan Carlos Harriet and Will Johnston. The match raised $10,000 US dollars for the CFPM.
Time Capsules: CONTEST — Enter To Win the Newest Patek Philippe Book
Last Saturday we reviewed the newest book on Patek Philippe timepieces by John Reardon,Patek Philippe in America Reference Guide, Volume 1, which presents close to every Patek Philippe men’s wristwatch and pocket watch produced in order by reference number from 1935 through to 1995. (see our November 26, 2010 Blog entry)
The book is created in a limited first edition of 1,500 hard copies and you can enter to win an autographed copy by author John Reardon here. Beginning December 1 and running through the end of the year, all you have to do is post a comment in the post below and be sure to include your name and email address. At the end of the year, at midnight, December 31, 2010, EST, we will be locking down the post so no one else can comment. Then we will pick a random winner and we will announce the winner on our Facebook page: A timely perspective. We will be contacting the winner directly in the first few days of January to coordinate shipping; and again, the winner will be selected completely at random. Remember, no email, no way to contact you, thus, no book.
Please do not enter more than once per day, if you do we will simply remove you from the drawing.
Time Capsules: Product –Ulysse Nardin Engineers Time for Women
This bold Executive Dual Time watch from Ulysse Nardin is marks another great stride for Ulysse Nardin in its mechanical watches for women move. Following the success of its women’s Caprice and Lady Diver lines, among others, the brand has been unveiling significant individual pieces that have been garnering special attention. Most notable of late was the Caprice Tiger line. Now, the brand appeals to the sophisticated business woman and world traveler with the Executive Dual Time. It houses the patented Dual Time system Ulysse Nardin invented and unveiled to the world in 1996. One of the company’s many technological breakthroughs, this system enables the hour hand to instantly adjust to a different time zone with the simple press of the pusher on the bezel, so the wearer doesn’t even need to remove the watch from the wrist to set the second time zone.
The movement is the self-winding caliber UN-24 with 42 hours of power reserve, patented Big Date display, and oversized small seconds-hand counter. The striking new 40mm timepiece is offered in stainless steel or18-karat gold with a white ceramic bezel, with either a white rubber strap or an alligator strap. The dials are offered in an array of colors including mother-of-pearl or purple galvanic. It is water resistant to 50 meters and with the ceramic bezel it retails for $9,400 to $19,900 for the rose gold version with ceramic. http://www.ulysse-nardin.com/
Time Capsules: Product –Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Openworked
There’s a reason the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is called the Royal Oak. We can dispense with the history, though. One look at this stunning Royal Oak Openworked (a fancy term for skeleton) watch makes it all breathtakingly clear – it’s simply Royal in its look. At once both classically elegant and yet boldly contemporary, this self-winding Royal Oak Openworked watch is a deft blending of tradition and futuristic prowess.
To skeletonize a movement is no easy feat. In fact, it is one of the most difficult, tedious, time-consuming efforts in the haute horology field. The artisans who work tirelessly to hone away nearly 70 percent of the metal of a movement by hand must do so in such as way as to preserve the metal structure and strength that maintains the movement’s precision and reliability. Then, once the metal is removed, there is the artistry of engraving and decorating the remaining parts for a truly exceptional heirloom-quality masterpiece.
All of that tradition would be one thing, however in this newest Calibre 3129, Audemars Piguet moved a few steps closer to a futuristic millennium by offering more restrained cuts, satin brushing, contrasting shades achieved entirely by hand beveling. The colors range from gray to anthracite thanks to galvanic surface treatments, offer a painter’s palette of slate hues that are immediately mysterious and attractive, especially when paired with the gilt brass gear trains.
The Calibre 3129, based on the caliber 3120, is comprised of 253 parts and offers hours, minutes and central seconds with cross-through balance bridge. It is fitted with a variable inertia balance with eight inertia blocks and offers a stop-seconds function. The watch has 60 hours of power reserve. With alligator strap, this striking bold 18-karat rose gold Openworked self-winding Royal Oak retails for a wonderfully priced approximately $46,500.
Time Capsules: News — A Testament in Time: Rolex USA’s Allen Brill Dies
Last night I learned of the passing of one of the more special men in our industry. Allen Brill, President and CEO of Rolex USA, passed away over the weekend after a short battle with lung cancer. I was quite saddened by the news. Not just because the watch industry has lost a great leader and honorable man, but also because I have lost a man I considered a friend in the industry.
Allen always took the time for me –even when he didn’t have the time. Allen always had good and kind things to say, even when what he had to say may have been a bit on the scolding side. He had a tough line to tow in his position and he did it with warmth and sincerity, and a true personal touch that is difficult to find it this day and age.
Allen and I crossed paths many times over my past 25 years in the industry. He had me beat in this industry by at least six or seven years. I think he started with Rolex in the late 1970s in sales, and quickly worked his way up to a senior vice presidential position. Over the years from the early 1980’s since I knew Allen, he was always affable and insightful. He liked to talk about the industry at large and took an interest in the personal side of your life. We would sit at industry dinners or events and he could offer a different viewpoint that you hadn’t yet considered – an especially useful tool for a writer.
In July, 2004, when he was made president and CEO of Rolex USA (when then President Walter Fischer moved on to Chairman), I remember he smiled humbly and said to me something to the effect of: This doesn’t change anything for me. I’m still me; it’s just a different title.
And it was just a different title. He remained true to himself — a strong, warm, jovial personality. Every year at BaselWorld, Allen always sat with me – maybe a half hour, sometimes longer (once, during the Asian flu epidemic we sat for an hour or so together with coffee and chocolate) —once in a while other editors shared out time, mostly not. It was our annual “catch-up” time, and we joked that we had to go to Switzerland to do it. This year, when I walk the halls of BaselWorld and I go to the Rolex booth, I know I will miss him ever more than I do now. Thank you, Allen, for your kind spirit, your warm laughter and your strong sense of good.
Trend Report: Pilot’s Watches
Alberto Santos Dumont ©CartierTaking to the skies isn’t as easy as it looks. It took Orville Wright many attempts more than 100 years ago before he got his first biplane to fly over Kitty Hawk, NC in 1903 – but thank goodness he kept on trying. Since then flying has taken on all new dimensions. And time has kept pace.
IWC Automatic Pilot’s WatchWatches and aviation have had a long and close relationship over the past century. In 1904, Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, the pilot who could be seen flying his dirigibles around the Eiffel Tower. He needed something easier than a pocket watch to tell time by when operating his controls. (In 1911, with Santos-Dumont’s permission, Cartier reproduced the Santos watch as part of its line, and today, the it is still in Cartier’s collection.) In the late 1920’s, following his Atlantic crossing flight, Charles Lindbergh went to Longines and together they created the Hour-Angle watch as a navigational tool (another piece still in existence today).
Breitling ChronospaceIn the late 1930’s, important developments in mechanical watchmaking helped propel the aviation category to new heights. Accuracy and durability improved. Chronometers emerged and brands began equipping watches with oversized winding crowns, or slide rule bezels (ala Breitling) designed for pilots. Easily one of the biggest accomplishments was overcoming the effects of magnetism on the mechanical watch. Many brands 
Bell & Ross Instrument BR03-92 Military Ceramicwrestled with this detrimental problem, but it was IWC that developed a method to outwit magnetic fields by housing the watch movement in a jacket or inner case made of a soft iron alloy that would prevent the magnetic fields from reaching the inner movement.
Following the World Wars and with the advent of Space exploration, some watch brands ventured further. . Brands such as Breitling, Bell & Ross and Omega trekked into the space era with enthusiasm. In 1962, Lt. Commander Scott Carpenter donned a Breitling during the Mercury program, and in 1965, NASA (after blind-testing a variety of watch brands) selected Omega’s Speedmaster as the official watch of the American-manned space flights. Bell & Ross launched into space in 1983 on Reinhart Furrer’s wrist in the Spacelab mission.
Omega Apollo Soyuz SP49
Generally pilot watches today are COSC-certified chronometers and often offer additional functions such as compass abilities, GMT indications, altimeters, telemeter scales (to measure distance), tachymeter scales (to measure speed), or 
Bremont MBII on cloth strapchronographs (to measure continuous or discontinuous intervals of time). Most remain on the cutting-edge in terms of materials used and testing. In fact, Bremont even has a joint venture with Martin Baker, British manufacturer of ejection seats, and its aviation MB1 and MB2 watch movements are further tested by strapping them onto the ejection seats when they’re tested.
Time Capsules: News – From Flea Market to Fortune?
This article comes with no photos — for now. The names have been changed, or withheld, to protect, well, let’s say, the identity of the people and brands involved. But just until we know a little more – or a lot more. Atimelyperspective.com brings you the unraveling story of a flea market find that just possibly could be an authentic, original, century-plus-old watch from one of the finest watchmaking brands in the world.
A few days ago a very good friend of mine – who knows quite a bit about watches himself—called me up to discuss a pocket watch he had found at a flea market and purchased for $25. It was a watch with great etchings on the dial – a whole city, in fact — and a few other incredible markings that for now, we will not name. Upon opening the caseback and looking through a loop at the key-wound movement, my friend made an astonishing discovery. The signature on the movement – if authentic – could easily date this baby back to the mid 1800s.
What’s more, because of the amazing engravings on the dial and caseback, it’s fairly safe to assume this watch is a unique piece. So for now, my friend’s got some top-secret photos, and we’ve contacted the brand to see if we can authenticate the watch. No matter how this flea market find turns out, Atimelyperspective will share news, photos and details with you as we go along, and as soon as we think it’s ok to share the pictures. It may take some time … so Stay Tuned.
Weekend Sojourn: Celebrities and what they Wear
This Thanksgiving week was filled with family visits and mingling with watch aficionados on a more comfortable, easy level, as we all just relaxed and enjoyed good food and wine. One evening in Philadelphia a friend and newly-started watch collector asked me what the celebrities wear – both on and off the big screen. It was an interesting topic, and one I decided to bring forth herein – just in brief for now. As we saw yesterday here at Atimelyperspective, with the announcement of the Michael Schumacher and Audemars Piguet partnership, obviously, many of the brands have their “ambassadors.” Spokespeople who are affiliated with them and wear their watches, appear in their ads and often make appearances at events. These ambassadors can be sports stars, screen stars, models, etc. Typically, these stars will be seen wearing the brand they represent most of the time (thought no t always in the movies – as that isn’t their call).
Derek Jeter is an ambassador for Movado, and wears the Series 800 watch.
Then, there are true watch lovers and collectors who wear a multitude of different brands because they love and collect watches. One might be surprised to learn that some celebrities own hundreds of watches that they have actually purchased themselves. They are not on any payroll and wear what they like whenever they like.
There is also another sect of celebrity – the fickle ones – the ones who not only wear their designated brand, but also wear other brands as well. Many of these celebrities buy their watches, otehrs receiv them asgifts. There are, however, certain brands, like Audemars Piguet, that refuse to gift a watch to a celebrity. Yes – it’s an interesting world of singers, models, performers, sports stars and others who love their watches asstatus symbols and as symbiotic time keepers.
So, who’s wearing what these days all depends on the category mentioned above. But here is an example from each category to whet the appetite, and now that we know it’s a subject of interest,we’ll show more every once in a while to keep you sated.
Because he can:
Recently, Michael Jordan splurged on a limited edition Hublot Big Bang Camo Arctic Bang Carat — one of 500 pieces produced. It retails for $23,900 and boasts a black ceramic case and bezel adorned with semi-precious gemstones. The watch’s camouflage print strap is made from Nomex and rubber –fire-resistant materials used in the uniforms firefighters and professional car racers wear.
On the Screen:
In the movie RED, actor Bruce Willis wears the IWC Pilots Mark XVI watch ($3,500). The automatic watch is crafted in stainless steel with a black automatic strap.
Stay tuned … Atimelyperspective will post more celebrity spottings as we go along.
Time Capsules: News -Vroom Vroom – Audemars Piguet and Michael Schumacher Make Noise
Michael Schumacher teams up with Audemars Piguet as the brand’s newest icon in the automobile racing arena – a field the company has been part of for years (having sponsored classic car rallies, and having had other auto racing ambassadors). In a classic car exhibition space in Germany this morning – and via live streaming — the legendary German race car driver was welcomed into the Audemars Piguet family officially by CEO Philippe Merk. Schumacher has seven World Championship Titles, 91 Grand Prix victories, 154 podium finishes on all the world’s major tracks and a host of other impressive wins that all together make him the greatest driver of all time.
Schumacher has been racing since childhood- starting with go-karts at the track his father worked at, and working his way up from there. He won his first title in 1990. He moved on and had an unbroken string of successes through 2006, when he quit racing. However, he has decided to return for the next racing season after a three-year absence. For Audemars Piguet, the partnership with Schumacher further demonstrates the brand’s alliance with perfection and excellence, and underscores its commitment to motorsports worldwide. In the past AP’s other racing driver alliances were with Rubens Barrichello, Jarno Trulli and Sebastien Buemi.
Says Merk, “Michael Schumacher is not only the greatest racing driver of all time, he is also a big-hearted, discreet and altruistic individual who dedicates his reputation to great causes. An iconic figure, he embodies strength, determination and a passion for challenges for competition.”
Schumacher will wear the Royal Oak Offshore.Will that make you run out and buy one?
Time Capsules: Commentary — Book Reviews
Looking for a few good reads? New on the market are a couple of books that just might be pleasers to certain collectors. For those Patek Philippe lovers, collectors and followers, John Reardon’s second book, Patek Philippe in America Reference Guide, Volume 1, presents close to every Patek Philippe men’s wristwatch and pocket watch produced in order by reference number made from 1935 through to 1995.
The large format hardcover book is a grand resource features more than 1,000 references with original archive images. It is filled with fun facts that would matter to Patek Philippe fans, such as “Did Patek ever make gold Ellipse watch letter openers?” (See page 33 to find out); or “When did ‘Patek, Philippe & Co’ stop appearing on the dials and ‘Patek Philippe’ start appearing instead?” (Ans: late 1940’s). There are many other more succinct questions about particular models that will have readers scouring for hours.
The book is created in a limited first edition of 1,500 hard copies and retails for $295 plus shipping and handling. (It follows Reardon’s first book, Patek Philippe in America: Marketing the World’s Foremost Watch.) Because it is chocked with original images, it is settling many age old questions for watch geeks in general and Patek people in particular. It is available at www.patekinamerica.com.
For those who are in love with watches in general and crave knowledge about their stories of action, adventure and high-tech design, look no further than the new Timepiece Machines book on the market by John Simonian, innovative businessman who has spent 35 years in the Swiss watch industry. Published by Tectum Publishers, the book brings together cutting edge watches and their impressive inspiration from the worlds of auto racing, yachts, air travel and other arenas, and ties together watch brands and their current involvements in these facets, as well.
The hard-cover book offers just over 300 pages, complete with more than 200 four-color photos of watches, cars, yachts, jets and more, and is written in three languages (English, French and Dutch). It is available now from booksellers worldwide, with a cover price of $50. www.tectum.be.