Batman Wears Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

We here at Atimelyperspective struggled with whether or not to put up this news product post, given the terrible shooting that took place in the Aurora, CO, theater during the midnight showing of Dark Knight Rises — afterall it seems a bit off-color to talk about stars and watches with so many killed and injured. However, in light of the fact that actor Christian Bale visited hte hospital last night, and that so many are outpouring with donations to help, it seemed okay to let watch lovers in on the timely side of the movie. 

So, if you are a Batman fan – you may have waited on long lines this past weekend  for the opening of Dark Knight Rises (the third and final in the Dark Knight trilogy).  What you may not have noticed was – POW! ZAM!! – that rich-guy-turned-batty  Bruce Wayne was wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. That’s not just any ordinary Reverso, either. It is a specially created limited edition Reverso Tribute To 1931 with a black-lacquer Bat logo engraved on the caseback so that it is only seen when the case is reversed, or swiveled. This tribute is a nod to the original Reverso that was worn by Val Kilmer in the very first Batman movie.  Both versions (the new and the original) will be in Jaeger-LeCoultre stores in Los Angeles, Hong Kong, London and Geneva – in case you want to fly in and take a bat look.

 

Time Capsules: New Product – Vulcain Unveils Herbie Hancock Watch

For jazz music lovers and for aficionados of the famed Vulcain Manufacture, this is an exciting introduction.  In honor of, and working with, this great pianist, Vulcain now releases two limited-edition 50s Presidents’ Watch models dedicated to the Herbie Hancock.

The Herbie Hancock watches are created in two versions — both with a sunburst dial in an intense and original shade of blue (reminiscent of the blue notes of jazz). There is a limited edition of 50 pieces in pink gold, and a limited edition of 250 pieces in stainless steel. Both models are equipped with the legendary mechanical hand-wound Cricket V-16 movement, that displays the hour, minute, second and date, as well as offering an alarm. The case measures 42 mm in diameter, and its back is engraved with the name of the celebrated musician. The “Herbie Hancock” 50s Presidents’ Watch is accompanied by a certificate bearing his signature and authenticating the limited-edition production of each of the models, along with an album by the artist.

Born in Chicago in 1940, Herbie Hancock was 11 years old when he first appeared on-stage, performing Mozart’s concerto n°5 on the piano and accompanied by the Chicago Symphony Orchestra. Hancock is a jazz chameleon who has made his way through changing styles and eras while consistently adding his own touch of musical genius. A gifted musician who played with legendary figures such as Miles Davis and Chaka Khan, Hancock is a brilliant performer who has earned multiple distinctions including 14 Grammy Awards.

News: Bremont Unveils New Limited Edition HMS Victory Watch

Worldtempus © Worldtempus / Elizabeth Doerr
Elizabeth Doerr

 Still the flagship of the British Royal Navy, the HMS Victory was completed in 1765. A warship, she did not see action until 1778, but it wasn’t until 1803 that her most famous captain took charge of her: Viscount Horatio Nelson. Having died on board during the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, the now dry-docked monument to historic days of adventure is perhaps one of the most revered museum monuments of the British Isles.

The only remaining eighteenth-century ship in the world is located at Portsmouth. Belonging to the National Museum of the Royal Navy, the ship is currently being restored – an undertaking necessitating a great deal of funding. Thanks to their involvement as Royal Navy ambassadors who aid in raising funds for preserving World War II and pre-war naval aircraft, Bremont owners Nick and Giles English have an “in” with the © Worldtempus / Elizabeth Doerr museum’s administration. The brothers’ background in flying and sailing – indeed each of them owns a small plane they take out almost daily – make this a natural fit.

As such, Bremont enhance its first foray into a precious metal timepiece with the addition of something no other watch has: a piece of original Victory oak and copper from six of the ship’s tremendously large nails.  The Limited Edition Victory wristwatch: the Victory Limited Edition. The automatic watch is powered by Caliber BE 83-AR (base Valjoux 7750) enhanced with a chronograph and two retrograde displays (date and seconds) to make it the most mechanically advanced timepiece produced by the brand to date.

© Worldtempus / Elizabeth Doerr Even more spectacular are the outside accoutrements. The clean dial not only retains its typical Bremont design characteristics, it was directly inspired by Nelson’s own eighteenth-century unsigned pocket watch. However, it is the special elements found on the 43 mm stainless steel or rose gold case that will capture every man’s imagination and directly return him to his childhood dreams of adventure. The case band of the three-part case was created from the melted copper of original nails used in building the ship, each measuring about 1.6 meters (almost 5 feet) in length. Hand-engraved with the word “Victory” and coated with DLC, the case band forms an immediate focal point for this watch, particularly in conjunction with the unique shape of the lugs. Underneath the back bezel, visible through the sapphire crystal is a wooden ring made of finely sliced original oak from the ship. The sapphire crystal protecting the movement also reveals two more interesting features: a gold rotor crafted by Bremont in its Henley-on-Thames workshop, and a sapphire crystal that has been hand-engraved with Nelson’s own seal. The seal, belonging to a patron who has donated double-digit millions to the HMS Victory’s restoration, was used on all of Nelson’s official correspondence and has never yet been utilized for any other purpose. A mold of it was taken in order to be able to engrave it onto the crystal and rotor. The hand-engraving was completed in the U.K. by one of the country’s oldest crystal engravers. Part of the proceeds of each watch, of which 40 rose gold and 250 stainless steel pieces are available, will go directly to the restoration fund for the HMS Victory.

Time Capsules: New Product – Hautlence HLC06 in Rose Gold

We’ve written about Hautlence many times before here. Now we bring you this classically elegant rounded HLC06, created in a limited edition of just 88 numbered pieces. It features an opaline chocolate dial in an 18-k rose gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter. To create the watch, the brand has rebuilt its house movement around the jumping hour and retrograde minute readouts, which are driven by the ingenious HL patented mechanism that combines the sliding movement of the snail feeler spindle’s retraction with a gold inertia block acting as an inertia wheel and providing the energy required for the disc to jump.

This third in-house hand-wound mechanical caliber, with its Côtes de Genève and hand beveling decorations on the bridges, plays with the concept of repetition of circles, right down to the sectors on the minute display arc, the redesigned face of the HLC represents a geometric reference to infinity. A complex piece with a streamlined aesthetic, the HLC06 displays almost architectural features, such as the skeleton hour and minute that surrounds and semi-opaque hour disc.

Commentary: Gralla Publications’ Milt Gralla Dies

  It was a long time ago – 28 years to be exact – and I was 26 years old. I had a Master’s Degree in journalism from Syracuse University’s Newhouse School. I had already had two short jobs in the world of journalism and writing that hadn’t thrilled me. Then, a warm-hearted, strong woman by the name of Marilyn Klinghoffer hired me (my second job offer from this company; I had turned down the first) as an associate editor at National Jeweler Magazine – one of many business-to-business magazines under the Gralla Publications umbrella.  

I thought I knew it all; thought I knew how to be the best journalist. Then I met Milton Gralla – owner and co-founder (with his brother Larry) of Gralla Publications. I learned the lion’s share of how to be among the “best” from Milt Gralla. He taught me tenacity, ethics and integrity above and beyond what was already instilled in me. He taught me that going to industry events wasn’t about talking to colleagues (he would be mad at me today for doing this), but rather about seeking out the brand executives, talking to them and getting them to remember that I – and ultimately Gralla – was there. He taught me to never leave home without business cards, they were more important than having money with you or note books. He told me to walk not quietly but intelligently, and carry not a big stick but lots of magazines to show what we had done in the industry. He taught me to be a leader and also to be a team player. Three decades ago, Milt Gralla entrusted the very young and still inexperienced me with the “roasting” of then-Seiko-great, Bob Pliskin – encouraging me to be funny and creative.  He instilled in me confidence and the belief that yes – you can do it —  and I watched my “timepiece journalist” personality begin to take shape.

I didn’t learn any of the essential journalism lessons in school – I learned them in real life from Milt Gralla. I am not the only one he nurtured and taught – there were many others.  He was instrumental in propelling the watch and jewelry industry to new heights and he was a giver – believing in bringing the best back to the community. Thank you, Milt. Sometimes words cannot say enough.

Time Capsules Product: Sports Watches — Breitling Unveils Superocean White Water

Sports watches are particularly in vogue in the summer months when enthusiasts love to snorkel, dive and more. As such,  Breitling has released its new Superocean 42, entirely clad in a white and aptly named the White Water. This new 42mm watch features a white strap, bezel, and dial with a sporty yet refined look. What’s more it is water resistant to depths of 1,500 meters. White Water is equipped with a self-winding movement that is a COSC-certified chronometer, and features a rubber-molded unidirectional rotating bezel. Powerful lateral reinforcements protect the screw-lock crown, and a safety valve works to balance pressure differences between the watch and the water. This instrument offers the confidence to make it through the roughest of seas.  — SW

Breaking News: CARTIER—Vacuum Packed – The Release of the ID Two and the Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal Watches

Cartier has just launched its second concept watch, one that continues to test innovative elements slated for use in future serial wristwatches.

 11 July 2012

 Elizabeth Doerr

Rotonde d Cartier Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal watch  It sounds like a distant dream, one slated to shape the future of mechanical watchmaking, not the present. Three years ago, Cartier’s ID One proved that it was possible to create an escapement not in need of regulation. This week, the Manufacture Cartier team headed up by exceptional watchmaker Carole Forestier-Kasapi has proven that this unique technology can be industrialized enough to apply to a limited edition wristwatch.

 Restricted to just 50 pieces, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal watch combines technologies discovered through Cartier’s Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal, limited to 50 pieces, is the first serial watch to emerge from the research of the ID One © Elizabeth Doerr creating the ID One with the unique mechanics of the Astrotourbillon. Aside from the 47 mm niobium-titanium case – chosen for development for its extreme protection against shock – this special production of the unique Astrotourbillon boasts several of the ID One’s innovations within its movement. One of these is the use of what Cartier calls carbon crystal components. More commonly known as synthetic diamond-coated silicon components, they were created with the cooperation of Diamaze. Cartier prefers to describe this material as carbon crystal (which it absolutely is at base) to avoid any confusion with the sparkling gemstones that are generally so prevalent in the embellishment of Cartier’s ID Twowatches and jewelry. The result of the tourbillon bridges, pallet lever, pallet fork and escape wheel – as well as pivots in tungsten carbide – crafted in this material is the ability to completely omit lubrication of the adjustment-free escapement.

 ID Two

 Three years after the ID One, Cartier also launches this year the sequel to the premier Innovation and Development (I and D) concept watch. These are not meant to go into serial production as is, but rather to act as tiny laboratories testing the new technologies found within.

 The most obvious new feature of the ID Two is its transparent case crafted in what the company calls Ceramyst, which reveals an incredible view of all the new technology stored within, beginning with the ADLC prevalent within the movement. This black PVD-applied treatment chiefly comprising amorphous diamond-like carbon interacts with the components – including several in DRIE-etched, carbon crystal coated silicon – in such a non-friction way that lubrication is no longer necessary. Additionally, ID Two’s gear train has been redesigned to include differential gearing utilizing ultra-light components not ID Two movementrequiring lubrication. The double spring barrels – a signature element of Cartier’s manufacture movement design – have been redesigned, coated with ADLC and filled with an industry-wide first: mainsprings crafted in a finely cut glass microfiber (also known as fiberglass) that provide a great deal more of the desired springy tension than conventional mainsprings and can furnish 32 days of power reserve. The adjustment-free escapement of the ID One with its DRIE-etched silicon, carbon crystal and pivot axes in ADLC-coated titanium inhabits a very special atmosphere within the transparent confines of the case: it is a vacuum.

 According to research performed by Forestier-Kasapi and her team, it is the air resistance within a watch case that provides a great deal of the friction stealing energy created. Additionally, a vacuum atmosphere does not allow dust or humidity to enter the case: two more benefits.

 Why all this effort, time, energy and cost? Forestier-Kasapi explains that in a conventional timepiece, a whopping 75 percent of the energy created is actually wasted. Taking the air – and thus this form of resistance – out of the case removes this added problem. Additionally, it allows the case back to attach itself to the monoblock case without even the use of screws. Aided and abetted by special gaskets and a crown construction that are less porous than usual, the vacuum atmosphere can remain status quo for up to ten years.

 Both Forestier-Kasapi and head of product and services for Cartier’s watchmaking innovation division Edouard Mignon stress the fact that all this innovation was brought to life to lead somewhere: to benefit The back of ID Two’s monoblock Ceramyst case is impeccably sealed by use of vacuum atmosphere inside the case © Elizabeth Doerr the end consumer by improving reliability and chronometry of serial watches.

 By experimenting with materials, coatings, optimized geometry, high-precision manufacturing techniques, new materials, air pressure within the watch case, and new solutions to old problems, Cartier envisions a renewed future for high watchmaking. Could it be clearer?

Aspen One Sports Watch offers Compass and Time in Style

By Samantha Walsh

We here at ATimelyPerspective first brought you this cool brand – the Aspen One Chronograph with built-in compass – about a year ago here. This watch collection, made to honor Aspen Mountain, combines features unique to the area of Aspen, including a specially designed compass showing where you are on top of Aspen Mountain (commonly referred to as Ajax) and the number 4 in orange (the color of prosperity for the Ute Indians and the color of mountain security).

 Now, Aspen One releases its new limited-edition Sportsversion, aptly named Downhill GT. This watch, with 18-karat gold details and titanium outer case, features a gold inner case for a much lighter-weight timepiece. In fact, the 45mm automatic chronograph with compass weighs 50% less than the full gold version, making it much easier to handle for the swift skiers of the mountains.

Time Capsules – Product: Stefan Johansson Releases Three Great New Vaxjo Watches

As you may recall, a little under a year ago, Atimelyperspective reported on Stefan Johansson’s Vaxjo Collection here. It is a sports watch line created to incorporate both precision and durability with a bold look. Johansson, a professional race car driver, knows all about the importance of being in the moment, and connects the language of racing and the language of time in this collection. This year, Johansson releases three new Mark IX and Mark X collections, which he recently showed in private to Atimelyperspective. He has been working to fine tune these watches for the past three years, and describes them as the point “where form meets function.”

 These new watches, powered by Dubois-Depraz movements , include  the 47mm Mark X “E”, the 45mm Mark IX “C”, and the 41 mm Mark IX “G”. They were created individually to represent different aspects of Johansson’s racing career.

 “I have created three families of dials, each one with a specific theme or concept. The three are embodied as the Signature Flag dial, the 24-hour countdown and our latest Retro themed dial,” says Johansson.

 The “C” series is engineered with a stopwatch function that can count down 24 hours – symbolizing his experience racing in the Le Mans. The “E” chronograph captures the essence of the 103 Grand Prix with hour index markers that are the 10 official flags of motor racing. The newest dial in the series, the G, combines the designs of the Vaxjo watch collection with a dial that ensures maximum visibility – an important aspect in racing.

 All of the timepieces share some unique characteristics including a 60-minute chronograph register. The E and G models also include a telemeter register, which measures the speed of sound. In addition, the all black straps on these watches, made from silicone and heat-resistant rubber, possess a tread pattern on the interior to help reduce perspiration. These watches are equipped with  sapphire crystals with anti glare coating, and the case back is engraved with the individual ‘chassis’ number, and, if the owner desires, his or her name.  These are great new additions to an already super cool collection.