Trend Report: Winter Whites for Women

This year, as fall gives way to winter, white hot is the word. Augmenting the great hues of purple, gray and gemstone palettes on the runway, white is a veritable staple – and one the watch brands are embracing with gusto. It’s an easy color to wear because it matches everything. It picks up every metal tone beautifully so you can have your choice, and – when mixed with diamonds – it’s a shimmering success!

Time Capsules: News: Boston Tourneau Event

Calling all Bostonian Watch Collectors!
A. Lange & Söhne and Tourneau, the World’s Largest Watch Store, are presenting Exclusive Viewings of the A. Lange & Söhne Collection.  Highlights will include the LANGE 1 DAYMATIC, the self-winding version of the legendary LANGE 1 with a retrograde day-of-week display, and the SAXONIA ANNUAL CALENDAR, Lange’s first annual calendar.

The event will take place at Tourneau Copley Place, Boston, on Thursday, October 28th  from 6pm to 8pm. http://www.tourneau.com

Shown here is the A. Lange & Söhne, Saxonia  Annual Calendar, 18k white gold, retailing for $36,400.

Time Capsules: Product: DeWitt’s Black on Track

Jon Omer, head of DeWitt USA told me the other day when we had drinks at the Waldorf Astoria, after visiting Cellini, that DeWitt is launching an all new ladies collection for 2011. While he wouldn’t reveal any secrets – in fact he was just flying over there this week to see the line for himself — we both agreed it was good timing. DeWitt is a great watch brand with a creative mind –Jerome Dewitt – behind it. But the ladies line has always just been a reinterpretation of the men’s watches. Having a ladies collection created in its own rights will be refreshing.
While DeWitt is known for its Tourbillon Differentials and incredible complications, of late some of the best sellers in the brand are the Black stream Chonosequentiel in PVD, rubber and titanium (which sells for about $29,800), and the Automatic that retails for about $19,800. (Though DeWitt does have another patented Tourbillon he is planning to unveil at Basel 2011. ..Shhh!!)
DeWitt in Switzerland only produces an extremely limited number of watches a year with its 70 employees, and one watchmaker builds an entire watch from start to finish based on Jerome Dewitt’s exacting standards. “He takes every watch project to the fullest extended and focuses on creating useable functions or applications,” says Omer. “It is his goal to make each watch more useable and practical – and always exacting.” For more information, visit http://www.dewitt.ch/.

Trend Report: Cars and Watches

Anyone who is an avid car lover somehow comes around to being a luxury watch collector as well. The two just have that certain something in common: excellence under the hood, the drive (pardon the pun) for precision, the magnificence of all those mechanical parts finely tuned and working harmoniously together.  What’s more, both industries utilize high-tech materials for their vehicles – titanium, carbon fiber, rubber, etc.
While the players in the watch-and-car world change as relationships change, the trend in this realm is to offer consumers big, bold watches that draw their inspiration from the cars they align themselves with. Among today’s hot line-up vrooming on to the scene: Breitling Watch Co. (which first presented a stop watch called the Vitesse in 1930) now makes the Breitling for Bentley line;
Rolex continues to make its famed Daytona ; TAG-Heuer continues to build its legendary Monaco (that Steve McQueen wore in the classic film Lemans in 1970); and Parmigiani Fleurier offers the Bugatti (which it has been collaborating on since 2001).  Jaeger-LeCoultre works with Aston Martin to create the cutting-edge Amvox series of watches, and Porsche Design creates the timepiece of its namesake. Spyker is a newcomer to the scene.
There are a host of other brands that sponsor races and design watches for rallies and drivers – but that’s a different report for another time. Meanwhile — What’s great about collecting the watches as opposed to the cars? The watches can be worn on the wrist 24/7 and don’t need to spend rainy days parked in a garage.

Video: The Equation of Time

Arguably one of the watchmaker’s most hailed feats — the Equation of Time is one of the most complex complications, and one of the rarest to be built. The Equation of time gives various astronomical indications — but its point is that it tells the difference between true solar time and average solar time. Our days vary slightly in length over the course of the year; however we opted to set the day as 24 hours. This intricate watch, with easily 400+ parts  including wheels, cams, teeth, disks and more, tracks the real solar time and the average solar time – and lets the wearer know the difference – so he or she can know when the true noon, for instance, is every day. While most are not privileged to see the making of this incredible marvel, thanks towww.AWJOnlineTV.com, and www.hautehorlogerie.org, we witness sneak peeks at it within this video.

Weekend Sojourn: Punta Cana’s Melia Caribe Tropical

This weekend, as I thought of summer gone and fall fading, I began dreaming up winter vacation ideas, which got me thinking of the lovely Caribbean. So this weekend’s sojourn is travel related: where we visit the warm turquoise waters and the hot white sands of the easy-to-get-to Dominican Republic.
This desirable island, thanks to its climate, golf resorts and water sports, has a lot to offer. I prefer the East coast – often referred to as the Coconut coast thanks to the hundreds of swaying palm trees on the 30-mile beach stretch of Punta Cana and Bavaro Beach.  The DR, found by Columbus in 1492, has a host of all-inclusive resorts that await the summer-starved traveler.
Among them, the Melia Caribe Tropical. The resort is huge – so beware – anywhere you want to go you have to walk, but the weather is beautiful and you don’t mind too much – unless you’re anxious to get to one of the 14 restaurants – then take one of the little trains that jitney around the property *(but be warned here too, those fill up fast).  The lobbies (there are 2) are grand with lush greenery, streams, dark wood, marble, and further back, cabanas and ceiling fans to while the time away in Island style.

The 1300-room resort, with its 10 bars, 8 pools, 2 spas, 10 tennis courts, fitness center, kids club and even wedding pagoda – has something for everyone. Owned by the Spanish Sol Melia firm, the resort lies on the expansive Bavaro Beach – one of the most beautiful white sand beaches in Punta Cana with warm, clear turquoise waters and superb swimming. Water sports run the gamut from snorkeling to diving, kayaking, paddleboats and catamarans, speed boating and parasailing.  
Restaurants indulge guests in choices suitable for any palette – with flavorful cuisines ranging from Thai to Mediterranean, Italian, Japanese, French, International and Mexican, as well as several grills and buffets. The only down side is that one can only book a reservation for dinner 24 hours in advance, and often the restaurant of choice is fully booked, or the times left are 6 or 9 pm (typically too early or too late). One pro to Melia Caribe Tropical for those in need: a 24-hour-a-day medical center on premises with a doctor on call and a hospital minutes away.
Pictures  (C) Roberta Naas

Time Capsules: Commentary — Swiss Heart, Cuban Soul, Cuervo y Sobrinos Offers Luxury Styling for Women, too

For just about five years now I have been wearing a Cuervo y Sobrinos Esplendidos Clasico with a cream colored dial, tobacco strap and superbly ergonomically curved 18-karat case. Granted, this is not the only watch I wear. But it is one of my favorites.   It retails for about $8400 and offers a lot of look on the wrist.
 

 
I love wearing it for a variety of reasons. It always gets second glances. It frequently gets comments, which, of course, gives rise to good conversation. After all, Cuervo y Sobrinos is a great brand for discussion. With a Cuban history and styling, yet being Swiss-made today, the brand – which traces its roots back to 1882 Havana –usually, strikes a chord with someone. The brand was relaunched about eight years ago and made its US debut in 2004. The Cuervo y Sobrinos line consists of four main collections – each of which is appropriately named after a cigar: Esplendidos, Prominente, Torpedo and Robusto.  Each of these collections has its inspirational roots in  original drawings discovered by the new owners of the brand in the abandoned Cuervo y Sobrinos workshops in Havana, and embodies the brand’s original spirit. For more information on Cuervo y Sobrinos, visit, http://www.cuervoysobrinos.com/.

Well, at any rate, recently, I had to part with my art-deco inspired Esplendidos watch for a basic cleaning and overhaul and it got me to thinking about the newer Cuervo y Sobrinos ladies watches. While no new design efforts have been put into the Esplendidos series recently as the brand was busy developing men’s lines (including the Pirata, or pirate’s watch), Cuervo has gone back into the archives and released an all-new vintage line ladies’ Amapola, inspired by a 1920’s piece.
The new line is a bit more feminine, sexy, and curvaceous. Slightly smaller and perhaps more well-fitting to the slender wrist, it is, however, a pricey variation. The all-diamond bedecked version retails for $32,000.
While I love it; think I’ll wait for my bold and beautiful Esplendidos to come back from its overhaul.  But if you’ve got some bucks to spend on a great new collection – take a look at CyS.
 

Time Capsules: News – Lange & Sohne Reconstructs 1902 Grand Complication Pocket Watch

Lange & Sohne’s Master Watchmaker Jan Sliva spent the past five years of his life on an emotional journey. Sometimes his rollercoaster had him thinking he had bitten off more than he could chew. Other times he was overwhelmed with emotion and fulfillment. Sliva was the first watchmaker at A. Lange & Sohne to lay eyes on the 1902 Grande Complication No 42.500 pocket watch when it came into the workshops in 2001. Subsequently he spent five years painstakingly restoring and refurbishing the watch – bringing it back to its original glory.
Recently, A. Lange & Sohne brought Sliva and the masterpiece valued at more than $2 million to New York – where they kicked off a celebration in Homage to F.A. Lange and in honor of its 165 years of history with the beginning of a watch tour that is slated to go next to Japan.  The NYC event was hosted by Gaetan Guillosson, president of A. Lange & Sohne USA, and the brand displayed movement parts, newest watches, and the one-of-a-kind 1902 pocket watch – with a full presentation of its long road from rusted insides to regal restoration. 
The  rare treat of viewing the Grand Complication is one that shall exist for only two years and then be gone, as the watch is still owned the private citizen who originally inquired of the company as to its worth. In fact, it was brought to Lange almost nine years ago by the owner’s friend who was visiting the brand’s home town of Glashutte. He was asked by the owner to just stop in with the watch and see if it had any value. Apparently it did. Sliva recognized immediately upon seeing the piece that it was a masterpiece of irreplaceable value. As such, Lange offered to restore the timepiece for free, provided they could take the watch on tour and show it to the world for two years after its completion.  Additionally, Lange documented the entire process of refurbishing and has since released a stunning book – with detailed photos and interviews with Sliva.  
The Grande Complication pocket watch is equipped with perpetual calendar, striking mechanism, chronograph with fly back function and more.    A. Lange & Sohne’s Sliva invested more than 5,000 hours over the five years into making new parts for many that were rusted, and into recreating the watch into the treasure it is today – an exact replica of more than 100 years ago. He worked with the Lange team to develop parts where old ones had corroded — always saving as much of the original part as possible. Most steel parts had to be replicated. One of the most difficult assignments involved the rattrapante wheel with 300 tiny teeth that had to be cut individually. “When I was finished with it, it turned out to be a failure, so I had to start again, “says Sliva. But today, everything in the watch – that sold in 1902 to a resident of Vienna for 5,600 German marks, works like a superb tradition in watchmaking – and is valued at more than $2 million.  To read more, visit www.lange-soehne.com.

Video: Marking Time Day by Day – the Making of Perpetual Calendars

Watchmakers work their way up to creating complicated timepieces. They begin on a basic watch and take years to get to the pieces that have multi-functions in them. Herein, one watchmaker discusses his work in creating the Perpetual Calendar timepiece. The perpetual calendar is a precise watch that indicates the date of the month – taking into account the months with 30 or 31 days and even February with its 28 or 29 days – and changing automatically to reflect those dates. Generally, it can take 10 days to assemble a perpetual calendar watch – here we get a glimpse into the making of one of these complex beauties and the watchmakers who have the patience to get it right.
Thanks to www.AWJOnlineTV.com, and www.hautehorlogerie.org, we witness here the concept of the perpetual calendar and its making.  Bravo.

Weekend Sojourn: Stephen Webster Jewelry

 
Jewels Verne, Astroballs … What will Webster do Next?
Oh, the answer is True Crime and No Regrets – those are the names of his newest collections coming out soon but still under wraps … But a peek at this award-winning British jeweler’s hottest collections to date leave us on the edge of our seats waiting for the next delights.
(In Deep Spider Crab Earrings)

Since he burst onto the US jewelry scene in 1999 with his then rock-and-roll attitude, funky clothes and outrageous jewelry – he has been winning hearts and customers ever since. Delightful, charming and always edgy – Stephen Webster continually surprises – moving swiftly from Crystal Haze and Tattoo collections into glam rock and Goth in wild style.
 
“My success came by surprise, but it wasn’t exactly unexpected,” says Stephen Webster. “I am a niche designer, and I’ll always be a niche. I was unconventional and caused a stir.”

(Jewels Verne Crab ring)

 
“Unconventional” is somewhat of an understatement for Webster – “adventurous” is even a tad too mainstream. Everything he does, he does with gusto – from his events, to his style to his collections – which has won him a global following. Today, Webster is a three-time winner of the British Luxury Jeweller of the Year Award and a winner of the UK Jewellery Brand of the Year. He has an incredible celebrity following and recently he formed an alliance with musical artist Christina Aguilera, who appears in the brand’s advertising campaign.
(Libra Astroballs)

 
 
 
 
 
His creations are bold and beautiful — and run the gamut from precious jewelry to sterling silver. His Astroballs – an astrological series of gemstone jewelry with zodiac signs interpreted around them—are intriguing and spiritual with a magical allure. His  In Deep line–inspired by sea animals – is whimsical and fun, as is the Jewels Verne fantasy series.
 
A passionate perfectionist, Stephen Webster has carved himself a colorful niche in
jewelry history books. www.stephenwebster.com.