Archives A Timely Perspective

Jacob & Co. Watches Offer Halloween Delight

October is here, and with it – depending on where one lives on this planet—crisp fall air, turning leaves of autumn and Halloween. So this month, we here at Atimelyperspective are going to have a little October fun. With help from our watch friends, naturally.

Throughout the month, we will be bringing you the darker side of some of the watch brands for those who enjoy a little skull duggery … such as these Jacob & Co. Skull watches. These watches are diamond bedecked haunters! Crafted in a stainless steel case with steel bezel, or in PVD, the Swiss-made watches are available in 40mm and 47mm case sizes. The Five Time Zone watches house multiple Swiss Quartz ETA movements and offer time in five zones via the main hours, minutes and seconds’ hands, as well as four subsidiary time zones. The watch also offers date indicator. Depending on the watch, as many as 10 carats of diamonds line the bezel, dial and case!

All versions feature 51 diamonds on the bezel weighing 3.25carats. The yellow sideways skull features more than 4 carats of multi-colored diamonds on the dial and the green skull with hat is also set with more than 4 carats of diamonds – and features ruby eyes. These watches are cool. They are mega attention grabbers – even when it’s not Halloween!

Breaking News: MB&F Unveils its Legacy — the 5th Horological Machine — It's Round!

The much anticipated fifth horological machine by MB&F is out – and it is different. Not so different that we had to jump up and down and shout – but, for MB&F – it’s a certain departure. To begin with, it’s round! Secondly it is not named in succession, as the HM No 5, but rather it is the Legacy Machine No. 1. So, the verdict, you ask? At first glance, our reaction was “Oh” (with a hint of disappointment). Round just wasn’t expected, let’s face it – this is a brand built thus far on difference. But upon further inspection, we have to admit—this is an MB&F masterpiece through and through. It’s got its authentic 3D beauty, its excellent craftsmanship and a bold futuristic appointment. The watch is a dual time zone piece with a unique vertical power reserve indicator that gives the watch depth and dimension.

Why round? Well, for those who know Max Busser, it’s not hard to follow his thinking. “What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s the first wristwatches appear and I would want to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but there are no Grendizers, Star Wars or fighter jets for my inspiration. But I do have pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower and Jules Verne, so what might my 1911 machine look like? It has to be round and it has to be three-dimensional: Legacy Machine N°1 was my answer.”

Legacy Machine No 1 features a domed bubble sapphire crystal atop some superb micromechanics. The watch was developed by MB&F with watchmaking friends, Kari Voutilainen and Jean-François Mojon. Mojon (and his team at Chronode) developed the LM1 caliber in house 100 percent for MB&F, while Voutilainen was vigilant about the aesthetic design and finishing. The movement of the LM1 bears the names of both its creators.

The watch houses a manual winding movement with single mainspring barrel and a bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement and dials. The balance spring is a traditional Breguet curve terminating in a mobile stud holder. This is really something to look at. In all, the movement is comprised of 279 parts, 23 jewels, offers 45 hours of power reserve in a vertical indicator. It beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour. The hand finishing is respectful of 19^th century styles with hand engravings. The watch offers hours and minutes as well as completely independent dual time zones displayed on two dials. The 65-part case is available in white gold or rose gold.

MB&F unveiled its first Horological Machine, HM1 in 2007 and took the world by storm immediately with its bold 3D look and new powering technology. I remember meeting with Max Busser before the launch as clearly as though it was yesterday. We sat on a bench in the foyer outside the SIHH watch exhibition, and Max was so intent and excited to show off this new prototype and talk of his “friends” and the creation of MB&F. His enthusiasm was contagious and the product was superb. It was the start of something big. I remember walking away after meeting with Max for nearly an hour and thinking to myself, “This one’s going to be fun to watch. It’s one that’s here for the long term.”

A year after HM1 made its foray into the world, HM2 emerged, then HM3 in 2009 and last year the HM4 Thunderbolt barged onto the scene. That watch had barely been introduced when, in January of 2011, Busser announced cessation of the production of one machine so a 5th could be created. He admitted he was sad to have to stop producing one model in order to create another, but “We just can’t keep building so many complicated pieces. It takes a lot of time to put them together and you have to sacrifice sometimes to bring out new products.”

The sacrifice seems worth it. Of course, we haven’t seen the LM1 watch up close and personal yet — as it was unveiled in Mexico City and Singapore today, but it’s coming our way, so stay tuned for hands-on coverage.

Meanwhile, in other noteworthy MB&F news, MB&F opened its very first gallery today, too – in Geneva. The M.A.D Gallery (Mechanical Art Devices) not only plays home to the complete range of our Horological Machines, but also to a host of other carefully-curated other sorts of machines from around the world. Such interesting pieces include alien machines by a Chinese artist; kinetic art crafted by an English artist-engineer team; machines from Slovenia, light machines and more. This should make for an interesting stop when next in Geneva. We’ll keep you posted.

Atimely Events: Christie’s Auction House to Hold Exception Sale of Elizabeth Taylor’s Cherished Belongings

Photo by Edward QuinnEasily one of Hollywood’s most loved and glamorous stars, Elizabeth Taylor has long been a favorite of movie buffs around the world. Her glamorous sense of style and her bold projection of personality have made her an icon. Now, Christie’s auction house has curated hundreds of the most precious of her couture items for a four-day sale devoted to the legendary star, the Collection of Elizabeth Taylor, to celebrate her films, her fashion sense and her humanitarian side.

To be included in the sale, which encompasses pieces collected over 50 years, are museum-quality ensembles from Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Halston, Versace, Valentino and more. Some of the pieces are even one-of-a-kinds created directly fro her for certain Award ceremonies or performances.
Among them is a silver Chanel ball gown and cape she wore to the Royal Film performance of The Taming of the Shrew in London in 1967, and an ivory silk Valentino Couture gown she wore to the 64th Annual Academy Awards in 1992. Nearly 400 items comprise this broad collection, including not just haute couture, but also accessories, handbags, costume jewelry and shoes.

So, what watches from this legendary star are up for dibs? A diamond Lord Kalla bracelet watch created by Vacheron Constantin and presented to Elizabeth Taylor as a gift from Michael Jackson. Its estimated value is $300,000 to $500,000. On a more affordable scale, there is a diamond, emerald and gold secret Serpenti snake bracelet watch created by Bulgari, circa 1961, estimated to sell for $12,000 to $15,000. The watch features an iconic Bulgari style, with serpent head hiding the watch dial. If I had the money, I know which one I’d be after, but getting almost anything from this auction is an investment!

Christie’s New York will present 68 of Taylor’s most iconic looks in a black-tie Evening Sale of fashion and accessories on December 14. Starting on December 15, another 326 items will be sold over three consecutive days in separate Day Sale sessions.

28717102. Valentino Red Velvet and Satin Ball Gown with Scarlet and Beaded Satin Evening Bag, dress labeled ‘Valentino Couture’, 1990s. Est.: $3,000-5,000.28715894. Chanel Ball gown, Cape, Shoes, and Matching Clutch Bag, Labeled ‘Chanel’, 1960s. Est.: 6,000-8,000. CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2011

Watch Debate – Do College Teens/20-somethings Wear Watches? An Armitron Watch Review

Dan O’Rourke

To an older and more likely wiser person of the 21^st century, the watch is an integral part of their day. From putting it on and taking it off in the morning, and before and after showering, the practical piece of jewelry is a common part of the daily routine. However, to the newer generation of youth it seems the ever-present cell phone has replaced a nonessential watch. Always having an accurate time set by satellites, most kids see the cell phone as a two-in-one work of genius.

I myself, being a product of the older and more likely wiser generation previously mentioned, fall into the category of those highly dependent on their cell phones as a way of, among other things, telling time. Consequently, when my smart phone started causing me problems recently, I found myself without any method of telling time. This, and my lacking ability to decipher the hour based on the position of the sun, I took it upon myself to purchase my very first watch.

Upon trying on the candidates for approval, I quickly came to realize that a watch is not simply for practicality, but also for fashion. I found myself having to choose one that universally suited me for my casual weekly occasions. The digital Armitron All-Sport won out to my liking among the other clearance watches I had to choose from. The $15 price tag was the feature which most attracted me. Its appearance is modest with a simple black rubber band with holes in it, not just for style but also for airflow to avoid perspiration. With three adjustment buttons, and a fourth to start up the backlight in times of darkness, I found the watch very easy to use. As far as providing the time to ensure my punctuality, it is like clockwork. Having it one minute fast is always helpful, when planning my time of departure, and a quick elevation of the arm is all I need to do to get the time of day, as opposed to reaching into my pocket and pushing a button for the cell phone to light up and give me the time.

Besides being stylish and practical, I have one favorite feature in which the watch has automatically provided from the time it was purchased. Upon every new hour the watch beeps once as if a friendly reminder saying, “Time is ticking.” And while the digital Armitron lacks the true “ticking” of a mechanical watch, it certainly has simply opened my eyes to how quickly time rolls by, especially when the majority of it is spent studying away at the university library. The date and alarm are also essential key factors in ensuring my promptness to any and all events. With so many features all packed into a wristlet the size of a quarter, I have certainly developed an appreciation and a liking for watches. Though I don’t have the world at my fingertips without my smart phone, I do have the essentials, of which generations past have continuously gotten by on.

Disclaimer from Atimelyperspective: It isn’t typical that you will see us post a photo of a $15 watch! However, this teenager may be the start of a watch collector (who knows? his father is a watch collector.), or maybe one day 20 years down the road when he is successful, someone will ask him what his first watch purchase was. No matter—in a world where teens use their cell phones to tell time – this makes for interesting argument.

Time Capsules: News – Omega Watch Co. & Arthus-Bertrand Planet Ocean Exhibition Opens in Shanghai

Omega has long been a friend of the Space program. It is the watch that went to the moon; it is the watch that timed the re-entry in a near-fatal Apollo mission. The brand has also long been associated with the Earth’s Oceans. Its watches have gone on expeditions with Jacques-Yves Cousteau and the late Sir Peter Blake. Now, Omega sets its sights on Planet Earth, as it has joined with environmental activist and photographer Yann Arthus-Bertrand in the making of a film (set to debut in june 2012) called Planet Ocean, to depict the natural beauty of the waters that cover two-thirds of Earth’s surface.

The first portion of that film comes in the form of some spectacular aerial photography by Arthus-Bertrand, which is currently on display in Shanghai at the Swatch Art Peace Hotel until October 23^rd. The photos from above reflect a variety of natural habitats and expressions of life, as well as man’s imprint on the environment. It is designed to depict a “state of the planet” in this new millennium.

Time Capsules: Product — Ritmo Mundo Watches – Solve the Puzzle

It isn’t every day you get to find a really cool, different and fun watch on the market – unless, of course, you are looking at Ritmo Mundo watches. This creative, almost 10-year old watch brand is ripe with innovation and has an awesome following of celebrities and watch collectors because it offers unusual timepieces that can boggle the mind. A few months ago we wrote about the brand’s wonderful Persepolis watch with its revolving case and two sides. Now, we want to introduce you to the Puzzle.

You remember those great grid games you used to play with as a kid – push the little squares around to form a picture? Well now you can have that game – on your wrist! The Puzzle watch features that toy-like puzzle design over the watch dial– in gold, or other metals—with or without diamonds! It emulates the game and hides the time, sort of as a cool way to defy time’s passing. The puzzle is a flip-top grid that one opens to reveal the time on the dial beneath! Ritmo Mundo also offers a great customization version, where owners can have their name or their own design created on the puzzle. These watches retail from $3,500 to $10,000 and up depending on the material and diamond or gemstone configuration. This is a fun and different watch – definitely one for the person who doesn’t like to watch time pass him — or her — by!

Plus, we here at Atimelyperspective have a lot of respect for Ali Soltani, the creator and founder of Ritmo Mundo, who is an inspiration to others, whose humility is a virtue, and who caters to a clientele that is notoriously hard to please (aren’t we all?!). Watch for more about Ritmo Mundo coming soon.

News: Hublot Watches – Liberty Bang — Offers words of Freedom Celebrates US Liberty Medal Award with Liberty Bang

Even if you are not the most patriotic American, this watch just sort of gets under your skin. Close up- you realize you are really wearing actual words from our Founding Fathers or about them — some of the words inscribed on the dial and composing the red, white and blue flag colors, are even key statements from the US Constitution — on your wrist. Really cool — and a great cheat sheet, too!
In Philadelphia last week, Swiss luxury watch brand Hublot partnered with The Constitution Center and the Liberty Medal as the “Official Timekeeper” for 2011 and 2012 to celebrate the USA’s values of freedom and liberty. To celebrate, Hublot created a special Liberty Bang watch that is really cool to see and, I think, to own! The watch, built in a limited edition of 100 pieces, is a 45mm black ceramic cased watch that features a dial in red, white, and blue flag design. Inscribed on the dial via a new technology, are different important phrases from the United States’ Founding Fathers from The Constitution. Pictures don’t do this watch justice, you have to see it to really get the full effect.
“Freedom and liberty are not gifts to be taken for granted, and we admire and are inspired by those around us who spend their lives defending them,” said Jean-Claude Biver, Hublot’s CEO. “It is truly an honor to create a timeless piece representing the values of the Liberty Medal.”
The Liberty Medal was established in 1988 (the bicentennial of the Constitution) to honor men and women of courage and conviction who strive to secure liberty to people around the globe. Past recipients include Nelson Mandela, Shimon Peres, and Stephen Spielberg, among others. This year’s recipient is Secretary Gates, and he received not only the Liberty Medal, but also the number 001 watch of the all-new Hublot Liberty Bang Limited Edition watch created in honor of this medal. This watch retails for $11,900.

Time Capsules: New Product — Officina Del Tempo Watches — See the New High-Tech Racing Chrono

It isn’t every day we cover Italian designed and made watches, but this new Racing Chrono from Officina Del Tempo is worthy of note. The brand’s first sport watch to house a Swiss-Made Ronda Caliber 5030 – the bold RACING CHRONO GEL, Ref. OT1051, features an unusual and complex construction concept for the case that was more than a year in the research and development stages.

Instead of the bezel, crystal and screw-in caseback being attached to the main case, as in typical watches, in this innovative watch, these pieces create the case as a function of the assembly. Essentially, there is no main case, but rather all of the afore mentioned parts are required to complete the case as a whole, with four main screws holding all parts together and to secure it to 10 atm water resistance (100 meters). In total, the 44-48.5 mm case is a work of 40 parts. To build the Racing Chrono Gel OT1051, the sapphire crystal is attached via a pressure “O” ring, the case shoulders are equipped with rubber inserts over the pins that hold the gel strap in place, and there is a hardened composite plastic inset along the bezel for harmonious design balance that only the Italians can achieve so beautifully.

Even the dials of the watches in this series are complex and technical, featuring multi-layered and part honeycomb workmanship. The Arabic numerals at 12:00 and 6:00 are carved into the chapter ring and are boldly treated in Superluminova for easy night-time readability. The center of the dial featuers a triangular plate with a “Cotes de Genève” finishing on it, and from which the bold Superluminova chronograph second hand and subdials emerge. The watch offers a 60-minutes coutner and an arc-shaped date indicator marked with a color-coordinated arrow at 4:00. The gel band introduces new elements, such as the locking system through the end of the strap, so that it remains anchored after the passage into the buckle. The watch is availabline in steel, or in all black IP with several bold color variations including a black dial with striking white, yellow or orange accents, a whtie dial with bold red accents, a blue dial with yellow accetns or a startling orange dial with black and white accents. It retails for $895 in steel, or for $925 in full IP black.

Weekend Sojourn: Breaking News — It’s Here – Jewels of Time, The World of Women’s Watches

Yes, opened my mail last night and received the first copy in the USA of the new 300-plus page, hard cover book curated and written by our own Roberta Naas. The book includes hundreds of pages of photographs of women’s wristwatches from the 20^th century to date, as well as interviews with top executives, designers, watchmakers, gemsetters and more from the finest brands in the world. This book gives a rare and unprecedented look into an often over-looked segment of the wristwatch world: Women’s watches. From fashion to forward-thinking mechanicals; from haute joaillerie to haute horology — it’s all there. To date this may well be the most comprehensive book on women’s wristwatches, and it is filled with equally as elegant prose, relevant quotes from historic, literary and artistic figures in time and informative details about women’s wristwatches and their making. It is slated to hit the US market for sale in mid to late October.