An incredibly original movement that was five years in the making and has four patents pending, the 9800 MC Calibre, housed in the Rotonde de Cartier Astroregulateur watch, was unveiled today in Geneva and is Cartier’s answer to the effects of gravity on the mechanical movement. Heretofore, the only movement that could compensate for the effects of gravity on a mechanical watch when in a vertical position was a tourbillion escapement.
With the Rotonde de Cartier Astroreguateur, the ingenious solution to compensating for gravitational effects focuses on the rotor – the only part of the watch that always returns to the same position even in the vertical plane. To maintain the center of gravity in one position, the escapement of the watch is connected to the rotor and mounted on the front of the watch dial, visible to the wearer. The sub-seconds dial is also attached to the rotor, and rotates with the rotor for a constantly moving visual appeal. The pendular seconds hand rotates around the sub-seconds dial in a normal spin. All of this is accomplished via two differentials that transform the wrist speeds into one single constant speed to the micro-rotor, which has five times more components than a tourbillion escapement. The caliber 9800 MC is a 43-jewel movement with 80 hours of power reserve and 281-parts. Just 50 limited, numbered pieces will be produced of the Astroregulateur in a niobium-titanium alloy case. The retail price has not yet been established, but this watch is a true beauty to behold.
The Glass/ Crystal Maker
One thing we don’t often think about when we look at the watch on our wrist is the clear glass or crystal that protects the dial. However, the making of a mineral crystal is an art in and of itself, and it takes a true specialist to be able to form the glass perfectly to fit the case. With a blend of purposeful molding, forming, cutting and heating using a special burning technique, each mineral crystal on certain watches is made individually. Thanks to http://www.awjonlinetv.com/, and http://www.hautehorlogerie.org/, we have the great opportunity to watch a mineral crystal in the making.
Weekend Sojourn: Concocting the Perfect Cocktail
Want to test the skills of your favorite bartender? Ask him (or her) to make you a Manhattan. If he ducks behind the bar to consult a bartender’s guide, leave while you still can. Or better yet, learn how to make this classic cocktail yourself!
Don’t do an eye roll. In case you didn’t know, the Manhattan is one of the most classic of cocktails, along with the martini, the old fashioned, the sidecar, the daiquiri, etc. Problem is, like many drinks, the old favorites have been replaced with new, fancy-sounding libations that are often more parts juice than alcohol. A Manhattan, like its cousin, the martini, packs a wallop because it’s all booze — and a pleasant-tasting combination at that.
Legend has it the first Manhattan was concocted in the 1870s for Lady Randolph Churchill, (Winston‘s mom) in New York during a bash for presidential candidate Samuel J. Tilden. After the election, Tilden was forgotten, but the drink caught on and took its name from the Manhattan Club where it originated. (Of course, like most lore, this is probably not the entire truth, but it makes for an interesting story).
To make a Manhattan, start with a good rye or bourbon. I personally favor Maker’s Mark, but you can use any other good quality whiskey. Partially fill a cocktail shaker with shaved ice and combine the bourbon with sweet vermouth at a two-to-one or three-to-one ratio. Shake in a dash of bitters (preferably Peychaud’s, a New Orleans favorite, rather than Angostura because it’s lighter in taste). Although most bartenders make a show of shaking the mixture, purists insist it’s better to stir it lightly so there’s no foam at the top when it’s poured into the glass.
Chill a stemmed martini glass and add a cherry to the bottom. Here’s another variation: If you really want to create a signature drink, use a brandied cherry instead of the bright red Maraschino variety. They might not look as pretty in the glass, but they taste great and won’t stain your tongue. If you plan on having more than one, let the cherries collect at the bottom so you can count them. That’s because with a really good Manhattan, there’s a tendency to have more than one and to lose count!
Now all you have to do it is sit back and enjoy. Lady Randolph would surely approve.
Nancy Sindt
Watch Stops 2011: Saturday Show-Season Kick Off
Today we introduce a new section to Atimelyperspective.com: Watch Stops 2011. This section will bring you all the show coverage – news, products, celebs and other information that comes to light this year. Today, we start our journey to Geneva, where this week we will cover the Geneva Time Exhibition (GTE), which opens its doors for the second year in a row and showcases approximately 60 exhibitors. Concurrently, we will bring you the news from the 21st annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). Naturally, while the shows are but a week long, the coverage will span longer. Mixed in the middle, will be some coverage of other independent and large brands also exhibiting in the City of Time. Expect some exciting news.
Time Capsules: News – PRE- SIHH Van Cleef & Arpels Version of Hot Air Ballooning
This is one watch that is destined for global distinction. Part of the Poetic Complications® series by Van Cleef & Arpels, this Five weeks in a balloon watch is inspired by the Jules Verne novel, Les Voyages Extraordinaires.
The dial is created with the old-world technique of champlevé enamel and inlaid with mother-of-pearl. It depicts a hot air balloon rising over Zanzibar. The retrograde hours are indicated by a bird in flight on the left side of the dial, while the retrograde minutes are indicated by the movement of the balloon’s anchor on the right side of the dial. (Retrograde meaning that the hand moves through the full count, and then returns back to the beginning to start again.)
Crafted in 18-karat white gold, the stunning watch is a deft blending of high watchmaking – merging complicated haute horology with creative design and master craftsmanship – the way only Van Cleef & Arpels can do it.
Time Capsules: PRE- SIHH New Product – Girard-Perregaux Recalls its Roots
Recalling the classical elegance of decades gone by, Girard-Perregaux unveils the 1966 Small Seconds timepiece, inspired by the brand’s 19th century large pocket watches. Offered in 18-karat pink or white gold, the 40mm watch houses a new GP automatic movement that was developed based on the brand’s caliber 3300. It offers a power reserve of at least 46 hours. The dial features gently curved Arabic numerals for easy readability and a large sub-seconds dial. Details are still under wraps but will be forthcoming next week at the SIHH. Stay tuned.
Time Capsules: Pre-SIHH 2011 News – IWC Focuses on Portofino
Each year IWC focuses heavily on one of its main collections – introducing a powerful wealth of important new pieces in that family. For 2011, it is the Mediterranean-influenced Portofino that receives an infusion of creativity and innovation. This family has been an important part of the IWC line for more 
than 25 years, since its introduction to the world in 1984. It is the entry level price of the brand, as well as one of the most classical styles – emulating the picturesque Italian harbor town for which it is named. The original watch was a 46mm moonphase piece powered by the slim 9521 pocket watch caliber, and carried with it the advertising tag line:”Mediterranean lifestyle sculpted for your wrist.”
While IWC has continued to make 
the Portofino collection uninterrupted since 1984, this year’s collection promises to be ever more alluring – simple, elegant, sophisticated and timeless. The series consists of four models, including the Portofino Automatic (with hours, minutes, seconds and date in a 40mm rich rose gold case with silver plated dial, or in stainless steel with silver-colored or black dial), Portofino Chronograph (increased from 41 to 42mm case size, it features slim chronograph pushbuttons and features chronograph functions, day and date displays – all powered by the 79320 caliber with automatic winding and ball-bearing rotor). These two models are offered with either a strap or bracelet, as well as with the option of a Milanese mesh bracelet similar to the ones popular in the 1960s.
The other two Portofino pieces are the Portofino Dual Time watch (wherein time zones can be changed and the date reset simply via the crown), and the extremely sophisticated Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days — the flagship of the Portofino family. This watch houses the new IWC in-house made movement, the 59210 caliber with large bridges and plates and offers 192 hours of power reserve. In true classical style, the watch features small seconds at 6:00, date at 3:00 and power reserve indicator between 8:00 and 9:00. These two watches feature leather strap made by renowned Italian shoe maker, Santoni, exclusively for IWC, and use complex processes to finish. All of the Portofino watches are so new that they have not yet been priced, but they will continue to respect the brand’s positioning of being the opening line while still being the classically elegant Mediterranean gem.
Time Capsules: Product – Jaquet Droz SW Chrono
Conceived based on the Grande Second SW – a watch with an extra-large second indication – the new SW Chrono has finally made its way to stores around the world. The bold beauty, introduced in 2010, is a powerful timepiece with decidedly masculine appeal and contemporary materials. It features a dial, crown and pushpieces accented with rubber. The mechanical JD 6885-S self-winding movement with ruthenium treatment is housed in a 45mm steel case accented with a three-dimensional flange and a dial of orange Super-Luminova-tipped hands for extremely legible reading. The watch offers column-wheel chronograph, white gold oscillating weight, 40 hours of power reserve and is water resistant to 50 meters. At $16,000 retail, it is a great look for this brand.
Weekend Sojourn: Exploring the Galapagos Islands
One of the world’s most beautiful and precious places, the Galapagos Islands is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These islands – where Charles Darwin formed his revolutionary theory of evolution – are an extraordinary ecosystem of life unlike any other in the world. Here, the most incredible array of birds, animals and plants co-exist in a volcanic environment that is the source of ongoing research and invaluable knowledge. The specific animal and flora species found in the Galapagos evolved here through natural selection due to the differences in living conditions –which vary from one 
island to another.
Blue-footed boobies (birds with blue feet and beaks) are a beautiful sight to behold only here. A great numbers of sea lions and the world’s only marine iguana also make the Galapagos Islands home. Galapagos Sharks are prevalent, as are many other species. But perhaps more impressive than the sea life, birds and animals that can be seen while diving, snorkeling, hiking and beach walking, are the amazing 500-pound-plus tortoises indigenous to the island — many of them hundreds of years old that roam the grounds in a sleepy nature. To walk among them, visit the tortoise preserves, Las Primicias Hacienda, in Santa Cruz- where the experience is unforgettable.
Unfortunately, due to invasive animals, pests and non-indigenous species, the unique wildlife and fauna of the Galapagos is threatened. The Islands are on the UNESCO Red List, signaling their danger status. The non-profit Charles Darwin Foundation, which works to preserve the environmentally rich archipelago, is located here, and when one visits the island, a tour of the Foundation’s work and preservation is an absolute must. On my visit, with IWC — which sponsors the Charles Darwin Foundation — we went to the 
islands of Santa Cruz and then Floreana, the only place in the world where the marine iguanas live, and which is undergoing a major restoration plan to reintroduce the mockingbird and tortoises to the island. We stayed just a few short days, but the entrancing wild life and fauna, and the history of this archipelago makes it a must-visit-in-your-lifetime calling.
Time Capsules: News – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms in New York City – No Radiations!
For those in and visiting New York the end of this month and in to February, you’re in for a treat. Beginning on January 26 and running through February 11 at the Blancpain Boutique (781 Madison Ave), there will be an exhibition entitled: “The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms.” The collection of timepieces for professional divers is one of the most comprehensive to be on display. It was assembled in Switzerland in October with the help of numerous collectors from around the world and consists of an array of more than 60 Fifty Fathoms created since 1953, when the brand launched the line in answer to a request from the French Navy Combat divers unit. The exhibit traveled to China and now the USA.
The exhibition includes the recently released and finally arrived Tribute to Fifty Fathoms (No Radiations) watch. This self-winding watch, with date and seconds, features a one-way rotating bezel, antimagnetic inner cage and is housed in a 45mm steel case. Created in a limited edition of 500 pieces, the $14,600 watch is water resistant to 30 bar. It marks the first time Blancpain has used the “No Radiations” symbol on the dial of a watch since it was first used in 1960. At that time, Blancpain was raising awareness that its watches were radiation-free in response to the 1917 case of the “Radium Girls” — young women factory workers who contracted radiation poisoning from painting watch dials with glow-in-the-dark paint at the U.S. Radium factory in Orange, NJ. The newest watch carries the original symbol and is a celebration of the No Radiations timepieces.
President John F. Kennedy inspecting a UDT/Navy SEALs team in diving uniform. The second diver from left is wearing a Tornek Rayville.