Archives A Timely Perspective

Trend Report: Retrograde Watches

Maitres du Temps with retrograde date and retrograde GMTYesterday, Atimelyperspective.com posted a video about the making of the retrograde watch and the setting of the hands on these timepieces. Mesmerizing to look at, retrograde timepieces are not the easiest to make, yet this year, they are among the most popular complications to come on to the market. A retrograde watch is one that offers some indication of the time of day (hours, minutes or seconds) or of the day, date or other function in a linear or arc fashion instead of the traditional circular dial mode.

Typically, on a retrograde watch, several functions are in classical readout and one, two or three displays are retrograde – offering a beautiful and harmonious look. The retrograde hand generally starts at the beginning and then Van Cleef & Arpels Fairycounts to the end of the scale, jumping back to the beginning to start its count again. In some timepieces, the retrograde hand is tied in with a particular design mode on the dial. Such is the case with the Van Cleef & Arpels Feerie watch, where the retrograde hand is the fairy’s wand that continuously moves.

Some brands offers single retrograde indications, while other brands offer a balanced double retrograde readout on the dial – offering two hands on either side of the watch in a “winged” format, or on the top and bottom of the dial. Yet others, such as Harry Winston, are masters at a tri-retrograde design. These timepieces naturally command a little more cash and are definitely worth the money. They’re wonderfully alluring to watch (pardon the pun).

Harry Winston Premier Triple Retrograde Chrono

Time Capsules: News – Omega, Panerai and Rolex Finally in Your Budget; Antiquorum Also Offers Affordable Lots

Omega Lot 206A few days ago, we talked here about the upcoming March 10 NYC Antiquorum auction and all the great headliner watches coming up for bid. But thanks to some feedback we got, we recognize that some of our readers are newcomers to the world of collecting and buying at auction and so are interested in learning whether or not there are some more “affordable” lots up for bid.

The answer is: YES — Definitively. In fact, one can opt in with purse strings of just about $1,500 and maybe walk away with a real winner. Lot 206, for example, offers up an Omega Speedmaster Professional, circa 1971. This water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers and tachometer is estimated to go for Panerai Lot 131$1,500 $2,500 and is a genuine find. There is also a 1942 Omega rare, “Staybrite” stainless steel wristwatch with olive shaped button chronograph, register, telemeter and tachometer that is estimated to sell for $6,000 to $8,000.

If Panerai or Rolex is still your dream, you need a little more cash, but still don’t have to shell out the half million talked about the other day for the top lots that are the multi-complication rarities. For between $4000 and maybe $7,000, take a look at Lot 47 for a Rolex Oyster Perpetual, circa 1963 — a rare 200m Submariner Superlative Chronometer, or Lot 131, or a PaneraiRolex lot 51 Steel Radiomir Rattrapante automatic Chronometer that was made in 2005 in a limited edition of just 1000 pieces. So go on – all you need is a few dollars and a dream.

Time Capsules: News – Harry Winston on the Red Carpet

Atimelyperspective regularly get requests from readers who want to know what the celebrities are wearing. Well, at the 83^rd Annual Academy Awards, Harry Winston watches walked the red carpet on the wrists of two important stars.

Oscar winner for Best Actor in a Supporting Role for The Fighter, Christian Bale, wore Harry Winston’s Ocean Dual Time watch, while Andrew Garfield, star of The Social Network, donned Harry Winston’s Premier Excenter Time Zone. Both watches are amazing works of art inside and out, with top-quality movements and multiple functions. The Ocean Dual Time is an award-winning 44mm watch with two zones in regulator style indication. The Premier Excenter Time Zone automatic watch is a 41mm white gold piece with second time zone indication and day/night readout.

ocean, Premier

Time Capsules: News — Vintage watches: Antiquorum Offers up Patek, GP Opera

Patek Philippe Ref. 2419Yes, if you are the consummate watch collector, the upcoming March 10^th Antiquorum New York auction is for you. A couple of really amazing timepieces are coming up for grabs – but beware- these babies are pricey and are certain to fetch global interest. In fact, I know a certain Kuwait collector who is definitely in the market for one of the top three lots.

So, for the not-so-feint-of-heart bidder, key watches to look at include the unique Patek Philippe ref. 2419 minute repeater wristwatch, which originally retailed by Cartier in 1950. The 18-karat yellow gold watch was commissioned by a NYC businessman and was not even recognized to be in existence until now. It has some very special features (including an oversized repeater slide and crown) and is estimated to sell for between $300,000 $500,000.

For those who love the Westminster chimes, you may prefer the beauty of the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two Tourbillon, Westminster Minute GP Opera 2Repeater Perpetual Calendar. First produced in 2003, this 18-karat white gold beauty is a sight and sound to behold. It is expected to fetch between $150,000 and $200,000.

A tourbillon a little more up your ally? Well, there is a platinum Jaeger-LeCoutlre Reverso GyroTourbillon going up on the block. Estimated to sell for $220,000 to $270,000 this magnificent piece was originally made just two years ago in a limited edition of 75 watches.

JLC Reverso GyrotourbillonFor those who want something a little more “affordable,” this auction also offers a rare 1961 Rolex (estimated at $30,000 to $50,000), and a few other goodies. Register early (http://www.antiquorum.com/how-to-buy/) to bid on line if you can’t be in NYC that day.

Time Capsules: Product – Concord C1 a Regal Beauty Inside and Out

Since its total overhaul in design several years ago, Concord has witnessed an amazing following of collectors and connoisseurs who enjoy the boldness and individuality of the C1 design. Now the brand presents one more extremely regal creation – the stunning C1 Chronograph Amethyst – a masterpiece both inside and out. (In some slight ways it may even be reminiscent of the Concord high-jeweled exceptional pieces that came out in the late 1980s and were true winners. Does anyone but me remember those?)

This haute Joaillerie watch is set with 217 baguette-cut amethysts totaling 13.80 carats – and offers distinctive lines , rounded curves and a singular splendid look that does not give away the fact that the watch is an automatic COSC-certified Chronometer chronograph!. Indeed, inside this magnificent beauty beats a Valgrange caliber at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The 25-jewelr movement features a snailed rotor and Cotes de Geneve motif. It offers 48 hours of power reserve and chronograph function. The watch case is crafted in 18-karat white gold and is water resistant to 30 meters. The strap is purple alligator and even the clasp and the crown are set with baguette-cut amethysts.The approximate retail? A mere $150,000 — a drop in the bucket for royalty.

Weekend Sojourn: Adventures in Qatar

This month I had the distinct pleasure of traveling to Doha, Qatar, for the 8^th annual Doha Jewelry and Watch Exhibit (see recent posts on this subject). While there, I did a little exploring of this desert peninsula located about halfway down the west side of the Persian Gulf. Surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Gulf, the land is beautiful – and — thanks to the find of natural gas and oil — very rich. As such, the desert is incredibly green in all the right places – adding the perfect mix of grass to teal waters, blue skies and white sands.

An Islamic state, Qatar is in the throes of major development and construction is a second-skin there right now. Still, the sky line is already filled with unusual buildings – crooked buildings, cigar-shaped buildings and other wonders. The state is small and so seeing it is relatively easy. For me, as a woman alone, I was restricted somewhat in dress (moderately) and activities. In fact, the desert rides out to the inland sea – a true treasure, I am told — was not an option. However, right in Doha is the wonderful Souq Waqif – filled with spices and incense, silks and fabrics and other wonders of the land. The Souq (market) offers everything from the exotic (including wildly colored birds and rare animals) to the basics and in between. Spread across cobblestone allies and walkways, the Souq offer great dining options, as well with everything from Moroccan to Lebanese and more – including a couple of “Hubbly Bubbly” spots.

Looking for a little more culture? A visit to the Museum of Islamic Art offers a collection of spectacular illustrated manuscripts, enameled glass, silver-inlaid metalwork, early earthenware, pottery, carpets and more. Works of art range from the 7^th century to date. The building itself is also a beauty to behold. Designed by world-renowned architect I.M.Pei, it is situated on the Gulf and features contemporary design.

Currently being finalized in Doha is an entire cultural village, Katara that consists of museum, an opera house, historical spots and a host of restaurants. The entry to the village is lined with huge posters replicating the region’s carpets for a breathtaking journey in craftsmanship and color. A little extra time? Take a relaxing walk along the seven-mile Corniche walkway that runs along the gulf, where you can view the traditional wooden dhows (boats) and take in the beauty of the skyline and the colors of the Gulf.

Time Capsules: Product – Vacheron Does History Right

Vacheron Constantin, the world’s oldest, continuously operating Swiss watch brand, knows all about history. That may well be why it offers such rich retro collections. Now it unveils the HistoriquesAronde 1954 – a truly stunning work of art and craftsmanship. Inspired by a legendary model from the brand’s archives, this newest piece is based on a 1954 post-war watch. Its original rectangular case boasted bold sculptural lines. The newest one brings these graceful, free-flowing details to new heights in the innovative double rounded curved flanks. The watch retails for $26,200 and is an even greater gem on the wrist than in the pictures.

Time Capsules: Product – TAG Heuer Mikrograph 1/100th Cuts through Time

Since its inception just over 150 years ago, TAG Heuer has been involved in Olympic timing, automobile racing and more. As such, the brand continually remains on the cutting-edge when it comes to developing timepieces that can time to fractions of a second.

Pushing the envelope of traditional watchmaking, the patented Carrera Mikrograph 1/100^th Second Chronograph as compared to most chronograph watches that measure to 1/5^th of a second. Also distinguishing the 43mm Carrera Mikrograph 1/100^th Second Chronograph from other chronographs its two distinct balance wheels, one for the watch (that beats at 28,000 vibrations per hour) and the other for the chronograph (that oscillates at 360,000 beats per hour) – which allows for the full engagement of the stopwatch without interfering with the watch function. The power reserves also operate on two separate cylinders: the high-frequency stopwatch offers 90 minutes of power reserve; the watch features a 42-hour power reserve.

“TAG Heuer’s brand spirit and DNA are all about freedom,” says Jean-Christophe Babin, president and CEO of TAG Heuer. ”We offer luxury, sport and emotion at the same time. Our watches have a history and an innovative spirit that comes through from creation to the wrist. The new Mikrograph, as it represents our dedication to extreme precision and quality performance. It was developed entirely in house in just 18 months and brings the concept of a chronograph to new levels and beyond … something TAG Heuer is famous for.”

Just 150 pieces will be built, each retailing for approximately $35,000.

Time Capsules: Product – Claret Turns Time into a Game

Everyone who knows haute horlogerie knows Christophe Claret and the magic he works with movements. His newest timepiece, however, crosses a grand line – it moves from haute horology into the world of haute Fun! Indeed, in the new Christophe Claret 21 Black Jack, Claret deftly combines his specialty of chiming time, complicated movement making and whimsy for one of the more unique watches on the market.

In addition to displaying hours and minutes, the watch lets its wearer play three casino games: black jack – with striking mechanism; roulette; dice. Two side windows reveal the artistry herein: one shows the striking hammer with its gong, while the other shows the two dice.

Created in a limited edition of — well – naturally — 21 pieces per version, the new automatic Caliber BLJ08 consists of 501 parts, 40 jewels and seven double ceramic ball bearing mechanisms. The twin barrel movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers 72 hours of power reserve. It is offered in either a 45mm gray titanium case, black PVD titanium case, or black PVD titanium and 18-karat white or pink gold case. Dial choices are either a pure black onyx dial, or a sapphire dial featuring plate adorned with casino-related motifs. The watch retails for approximately $170,000 to $200,000 depending on the version. Cool Hand!!