Time Capsules: Product – Here’s to the Rivet-ing HM3 Frog Zr from MB&F

Rare, unusual, and top-of-the-line mechanics – that about sums it up when it comes to creations from MB&F, and the newest extension of the HM3 Frog – the HM3 Frog Zr is no exception. Wowing us with the colors at first glance – the case is black PVD zirconium with a purple 22-karat gold rotor — the HM3 Frog Zr is crafted of amazing materials and is yet another of MB&F’s achievements in its efforts to bring a bit of whimsy to haute horlogerie.

 Whimsy, however, doesn’t outweigh craftsmanship or cutting-edge design and materials. To begin with, the Zr is Zirconium, a material resembling titanium but tougher. (A protective ceramic layer of this material and another coat modern jet engines, and zirconium alloys are used in the space program.) The hour and minute domes that rotate under the sapphire crystals (readable from any angle) are machined from solid aluminium (whose light-weight properties reduce rotational energy requirements).

The 3-D, 304-part engine of this watch (powered by a Girard-Perregaux base) was designed by the brilliant Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhorz).  (Atimelyperspective has covered JMW before, as his talents are exceptional.)   The hours and minutes info is transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to the rotating domes, which feature the hours on one dome (rotating in 12 hours) and the minutes on the other (rotating in 60 minutes).

 The HM3 Frog Zr, with its amazing 53-part case, is built in a limited edition of 18 pieces, each retailing for just about $92,000. So if you’ve got a mind for a rare purple and black riveting frog – get jumping.

Time Capsules: Product – Jean Dunand’s Palace – Fit for a King – But you can buy one, too

For the past decade, the Jean Dunand brand has been quietly turning out masterpieces. The brand, born of the fascination of two great watchmaking minds — Thierry Oulevay and Christophe Claret, celebrates Swiss-born artist Jean Dunand (1877–1942), one of the great craftsmen of the art deco movement. With the brand name in place in 2003, this team struck out to marry science, craftsmanship and art in unique masterpieces.

Every Jean Dunand Piece Unique is, indeed, unique; no watch shares its materials or decoration with another. The styling of the watches is always consistent with the art deco ideals of simple geometrics and functional design. With these concepts and Claret’s amazing talent, rare and exceptional pieces were born. Such pieces include the now-coveted Tourbillon Orbital and the alluring Palace with one-minute flying tourbillon, chronograph, GMT indicator for second time zone and power reserve.  

This is truly one of the most conceptual works of haute horlogerie, paying homage to the industrial revolution. While it was unveiled in 2010, just a few are built each year, so there is still opportunity to get one of these works of art. (At a price of just about $450,000).

This is watch that is not to be forgotten in last year’s news! 

A true art-deco watch, The Palace was inspired by buildings of that era. The bold 48mm x 49mm titanium case provides protection for the 703-part movement whose rigid plates are supported by 10 miniscule pillars – reminiscent of a massive iron building or bridge. Other details recall the cross-pieces found in the bridges of the era and in the Eiffel Tower.

At the heart of the Palace beats a flying tourbillon, on either side, two oval-shaped tracks are reminiscent of the “Milwaukee Mile” racing circuit. The left track indicating GMT makes two passes: when the disc reaches the end, it flies back to the top and the arrow rotates 180 degrees to chart the other scale. On the right, a 72 hour power reserve indicator mirrors the GMT.
Visible bridges and wheels are striking visual reminders of the Industrial Revolution. A unique winding mechanism communicates its power to the barrel via a tiny chain designed to evoke the chain of vintage motorcycles. Each Palace is a unique piece. 

Time Capsules: TAG Heuer Splits the Seconds Ever Further with the Mikrotimer Flying 1000

Just a few months ago, when we were in Geneva for the SIHH, ATimelyperspective met with TAG Heuer and reviewed the then-amazing Mikrograph (the first mechanical chronograph to achieve 1/100th accuracy). Recently, TAG Heuer unveiled the Mikrotimer Flying 1000, a new concept watch made entirely in house that is capable of accuracy to 1/1000th of a second.

 The 500 Hz watch beats at 3.6 million beats per hour – 10 times faster than the Mikrograph and 125 times faster than most existing chronographs– with the central chronograph hand completing a full rotation 10 times each second.  It has a full 11 patents pending on its innovative technology. Cased in black titanium carbide, its avant garde look and fast-forward timing makes it a stand-out timepiece. It measures 1/100th and1/1000th of a second on the external scales and the central hand indicates elapsed minutes and 5 seconds. The unusual 354-part movement houses no balance wheel system; instead it uses a “Launcher-Hub-Brake” system controlled by a column wheel. The wearer must add together the fractions of a second for a final tally when it comes to totaling the time elapsed – perhaps the only drawback, but its 1/1000th timing is a major advancement. It’s bold but sleek and looks and feels good on the wrist. But remember — it’s a concept watch — a technology announcement. Not available yet for sale, it could take a couple of years to bring to fruition. When it’s ready,  it will cause a stir. For now – seek out the Mikrograph.

ATimely Event: You are Invited to Audemars Piguet’s Newest Adventure

Please join Atimelyperspective this Saturday night at the newest adventure of Audemars Piguet in  New York City. On Saturday, May 7, beginning at 8 pm, the brand sponsors its first-ever evening of light and projection art at Old St. Patrick’s Cathedral (the country’s oldest cathedral) on Mulberry Street in New York City. As the official sponsor of Flash:Light (www.flashlightnyc.org), Audemars Piguet will transform the façade of the cathedral into a larger-than-life open-worked timepiece- showcasing signature AP movements.


As AP’s first foray into the art world, the event is open to the public and free of charge. The video animation is a featured project of the New Museum’s Festival of Ideas for the New City. The evening’s highlight will be the world premiere of a fully animated light installation by multi-media artist Jeff Grantz. The front of St. Patrick’s Old Cathedral will become a temporary transparent timepiece. This exciting 3-D projection is the result of collaborations between Grantz, the Monsignor of the New York Archdiocese and Audemars Piguet.

The Festival of Ideas for the New City, May 4-8, 2011, is a major new collaborative initiative in New York involving scores of Downtown organizations working together to harness the power of the creative community to imagine the future city and explore ideas that will shape it. The Festival will include a three-day slate of symposia; an innovative StreetFest along the Bowery; and over eighty independent projects and public events. For more information, visit www.festivalofideasnyc.com.

 

 

 

Time Capsules: Urwerk Torpedoes Full Ahead

Unusual watches surround us these days. No longer are ultra luxury timepieces simply round or square with the time indicated in regular “hands” format. Certain watchmakers broke that mold some time ago – bringing unique new modes of timekeeping and reading to the forefront. Urwerk is one such brand and the new UR-110 Torpedo is one such watch.

From its asymmetrical case to the three arrow-shaped torpedoes flying in formation on the dial (their mission is to indicate the time), this watch is a bold technological statement.  Available in titanium on strap at $95,000 (25 pieces being made), the watch essentially indicates time by means of a revolving satellite complication on planetary gears- with patented carousel.   Urwerk – founded by watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei – is known for using satellite complications. The ingenious layout of this new watch enables the wearer to view the time on the right side of the watch so the man doesn’t have to move the shirt cuff aside. Additionally, this I the first time that all three satellites have all the numbers always vertical and spinning in one direction. To accomplish this, it was a question of changing the spin on the satellite and changing the wheels and the number of teeth, as well –no easy feat.  Additionally, the watch uses high-precision transporters to control the variable lengths of the minute hands as they traverse the dial – requiring extreme precision and tolerances. While the watch may look simple at a glance – it is not. This watch features a new crown execution and before it could come to fruition; the technical engineer confided to me that he worked on five different crown versions before the technology worked perfectly, since the space was really needed inside the case for the movement.

 “In fact, the development of UR-110 mobilized our entire team for nearly two years,” says Felix Baumgartner.

Two years – one design – 25 pieces.  Are you on that waiting list?

 

Weekend Sojourn: IWC and Peter Lindbergh Bring Out the Stars

With more than 140 years of experience behind it, IWC Schaffhausen knows how to do things right. This top-of-the-line watch manufacture is all about excellence. That may be why so many celebrities flocked to Culver City Studios, CA, a couple of evenings ago to celebrate “A Night in Portofino” with the brand. In fact, IWC brought the entire concept of the wonderful Italian seaside town of Portofino in for the exclusive event to exhibit its collaborative effort with legendary photographer Peter Lindbergh.
Lindbergh photographed “A Night in Portofino” with IWC and its Friends of the Brand last May to capture the true elegance of Portofino as it was in the 1960’s and Lindbergh sees it.  Among those photographed in the nostalgic town were Cate Blanchett, Kevin Spacey, Elle Macpherson, Luis Figo, Matthew Fox and Eric Dane.  The resulting exhibition “Peter Lindbergh’s Portofino” consists of a series of impressive black-and-white photographs that were the highlight of the event. The exhibition, which I had the distinct pleasure of viewing earlier this year in Geneva,will now tour major cities around the world. Among the celebrities at the event were Eric Dane, Patrick Dempsey, Rebecca Gayheart, Sylvester Stallone, Joe Manganiello, Rob Lowe and a host of others. For more information about “Peter Lindbergh’s Portofino”, please visit http://www.iwc.com/en/news/night-portofino/
 

Time Capsules: News — Franck Muller Hits a Home Run with The Reggie Jackson Collection at Tourneau

Beginning Monday morning May 2nd, and throughout the month of May, New Yorkers are in for a treat:  the windows of Tourneau Time Machine on 57th Street will pay tribute to Yankees all-time great Reggie Jackson, and will showcase renderings of the new Franck Muller Reggie Jackson watch Collection – for which Tourneau is the exclusive retailer. What’s more, on Monday, May 9th, Tourneau is hosting a special by-invitation-only event with the iconic baseball legend to launch the new Franck Muller Reggie Jackson watch collection in its store. This marks the first time Tourneau will close its doors an hour early for a significant event. Guests attending that night will get the first look at the collection of exciting Conquistador timepieces – which will then be on display starting May 10 for the public to see at Tourneau.
The exciting series of Conquistador timepieces is the result of a partnership between Reggie Jackson and the Franck Muller brand. There are three models in the collection – each built in a limited edition. Two watches are Center Seconds pieces and one is a chronograph. While I may have gotten a sneak peak – I am sworn to secrecy until May 9th – but rest assured – you’ll want to be lining up on May 10th for one of these babies if you are a Yankees fan and are not invited to the event. There aren’t many of these watches and they’re going to go fast! Pass by the window this week and see the signature Yankees look to the watches! Stay tuned for the May 9th unveiling of this momentous Franck Muller and Reggie Jackson event at Tourneau, as well as a moment in time with the great Reggie Jackson.

Time Capsules: Product — Hermes Stops Time with the Time Suspended Watch

One of the most original unveilings of BaselWorld 2011 is the Time Suspended watch  by Hermes — developed by well-known watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht.  A classic beauty at first glance, with a retrograde date indication in arc format across the lower portion of the dial, the watch is a true surpriser. Closer inspection reveals the timepiece’s true abilities – to suspend the tracking of time – to stop time visually.  In fact, the watch operates via a triple retrograde system. By simply pressing a pushbutton, the wearer stops the hour and minute hands, which are then relocated to a space near 12:00 (as though they don’t exist). Even the date hand disappears. Inside, the watch continues to keep perfect time, but outwardly – there is not tracking of the moments. Yet, with the press on the pushbutton, the hands begin running again at the correct time, and the date instantly appears again – correctly, of course. So if you’ve got something you want to enjoy doing and don’t want to keep glancing at the time speeding by – suspend that passing of time – for a few hours or a day or so …. it will be there when you are ready. The watch concept started four years ago with the idea of “stopping time” and ended with this winner.   Bravo!!

Off the Cuff: Reviewing the Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123

There are watches for flying. Watches for diving. There are watches with race-car pedigree. But what’s your watch of choice when you’re riding – riding horses that is. That was the question I had as I set off for a week at a dude ranch in Tucson, Arizona.

 For me, going to the White Stallion Ranch, the choice was my new Bell & Ross Vintage BR123, a rugged watch that would not only look rugged in the Sonoran Desert, but one that would perform flawlessly as well. As I anticipated, the domed anti-reflective crystal was as easy to read on my horse on the mid-day desert trails as it would be in any pilot’s cockpit. Readability is a feature that shouldn’t be considered an option when bouncing on top of a horse along a dusty desert trail among the saguaro cacti.

 What surprised me about the BR 123 is just how good it looked while on the ranch. The natural leather strap was a virtual match for much of the saddlery. The clean, simple design looked right at home in the desert ranch.

 So it looked good and was easy-to-read. But how did it function? Every couple of days I checked the accuracy of the BR 123 as compared to the U.S. Naval Observatory’s official time. The ETA 2895 movement performed flawlessly despite the bumping around in the harsh desert environment. Extreme heat, desert winds and dust, horseback riding – nothing fazed it.

 It is unlikely that any watch manufacturer will design and market a watch of stature for the individual who wants to bring out his inner cowboy on a dude ranch. In the meantime, a watch that was designed for the aviator will do just fine.

 —  John O’Rourke