Watch Stops: SIHH 2012 – A Moment with Clive Owen and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Duometre Collection

photo of Clive Owen (c) Jon Bues @ IW MagazineAs if the SIHH isn’t exciting enough by itself, Jaeger-LeCoultre brought in Academy Award nominated actor, Clive Owen to present the new fine watchmaking Duomètre collection. I had the privilege to be among the few invited journalists to see and hear the eloquent Owen make his presentation.

 “A Jaeger-LeCoultre watch is everything you want a high-quality watch to be – all the hours of workmanship make this a beautiful and very elegant watch to wear, and it also looks great, » says Clive Owen. “I have been wearing Jaeger-LeCoultre watches for many years now and have always been a fan of the brand. The level of the craftsmanship is so impressive: the ethos of the company with the attention to detail make these watches very desirable. I always wear my Duomètre à Chronographe in platinum and it feels right! ”

 The newest Duometre a Spherotourbillon is built with an impressive dual-wing mechanism, which features two separate and independent mechanisms in one case, both linked to a single regulating organ to guarantee chronometer precision. Since 2007, the brand has offered a Duometre Chronograph and perpetual calendar. Now, the tourbillon joins the ranks. The multi-axis tourbillon timepiece ahs a flyback function and offers travel time with 24-hour reference time zone. The new caliber consists of 460 parts for a sophisticated masterpiece.

 

Cartier's Straw Dial Watch

Yes, a watch dial made of straw — leave it to Cartier. Last year this brand released the wood marquetry dialed watch with brown bear motif. Now, Cartier has taken the minute and extremely time-consuming marquetry dial to an all-new level – creating a Koala Bear motif out of straw marquetry. More details on this 35mm Rotonde de Cartier watch will be coming soon but we had to show you this exquisite work of art and majesty.

Time Capsule: Peter Speake-Marin Unveils Renaissance Tourbillon Minute Repeater

Ok, so if you know Peter Speake-Marin, the visionary British watchmaker with a gentle manner, affable spirit and a classical approach to timepieces, you know that when he builds something he pours heart and soul into it. Such is the case with the beautiful and extraordinary new Renaissance Tourbillon Minute Repeater.

Named Renaissance for a new era in Speake-Marin’s ever moving journey of discovery in the world of watchmaking, the watch encompasses a repeater mechanism that Speake-Marin enjoyed working on in London in his early days. It recalls his previous work, current elements and the always forward-thinking specialty accents. Cased in Speake-Marin’s Piccadilly case with pleated crown, the movement of each watch is hand engraved- making it a piece unique. The 330-part movement was developed according to Speake-Marin’s exacting standards by La Fabrique du Temps, Geneva. It offers a 60-secon tourbillon and a chiming repeater with an all-or-nothing mechanism.  The stunning works are revealed via an open dial and a sapphire case back.  Words can’t say enough about this piece – it is quintessential Speake-Marin.

Weekend Sojourn: The Age of Aquarius by SEAH Watches (January 20-February 18)

This week starts the dawn of the Aquarius – if you are into the zodiac. SEAH® Watches offers wonderful timepieces that reflect each astrological sign – at an affordable quality/value relationship. I am a Pisces and wear this watch a lot – it is the one that just simply says who I am and reminds me all the time of my own unique traits and inner potential.

This SEAH® Aquarius watch is a 42mm Swiss made Automatic watch with a natural colored mother-of-pearl chapter ring that is hand crafted. In fact, the making of these layered chapter rings is very difficult to do, and so they are an expensive feat. The exquisite natural pale blue and white mother of pearl used in the SEAH® watches is sourced out of Indonesia, and its translucency is so alluring that it changes its hues based on the angle and the light, as well as the surrounding colors. The chapter ring is hand-affixed to the dial, and the numerals are hand applied, as well, with the utmost attention to detail, precision and excellence.

For those Aquarius folks out there, this is SEAH’s horoscope:

Aquarius people look forward and think outside the box.  Like their symbol, the Water Bearer that pours knowledge and wisdom earthward, Aquarius seeks to nurture humanity. 

Aquarius – you are the Futurist of the Zodiac.  Innately intuitive, original and inventive, you seek freedom through creative problem-solving, and your unique approach to life is inborn.  Amethyst is your birthstone, Uranus your planet, Air your element.  Uranus governs lightening and intuitive power, those sudden flashes of understanding that unify diverse ideas; trust and listen to them.  Through understanding the universal principals of Aquarius you can best align with time and honor your pioneering spirit.  Social and gregarious, you are nurtured by group activities.  Philosophical discussions with friends uplift and inspire your inquisitive mind.  Keeping a journal to record flashes of insight will be an inspiring process.    Take time to develop and listen to your intuitive gifts.  Look to the future knowing solutions to challenges are yours to discover.  Aquarius, you’re a free spirit, this is your gift…don’t forget to trust your intuition.

 

Watch Stops 2012: SIHH – Vacheron Constantin Shows Off the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon

Complete with the Hallmark of Geneva, the new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Tourbillon offers an amazing 14 days of power reserve. Created in pure watchmaking classic beauty, the timepiece houses the new VC Calibre 2260 – the first tourbillon to boast 14 days of power reserve and the brand’s first to be approved according to the new Hallmark of Geneva criteria.

In order to provide a full 14-day power reserve, the new Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2260 is equipped with four barrels mounted in coupled pairs. They are all connected and all unwind simultaneously, but naturally four times slower than a single barrel. The four barrel-springs amount to a total length of around 2.20 metres and each enables approximately 13 development rotations, all in a calibre whose diameter is of only 12 ¾ lignes (29.10mm)! Other than the practical aspect of this power reserve, these barrels guarantee a longer stability in time.

The 231-part movement features two large bridges to enhance the precision of the watch. These bridges are lavishly engraved and vanished. The tourbillion carriage is inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese Cross and provides a showcase for the exceptional level of finishing of each movement part, including a number of interior angles, all naturally hand-bevelled. The rounding off of the tourbillon bar alone takes over 11 hours of manual craftsmanship to achieve an optimal effect. The mechanical hand wound watch is crated in 5N pink gold.

Watch Stops 2012: SIHH – Jaeger-LeCoultre Releases Memovox Deep Sea Vintage

Since the 1950’s Jaeger-LeCoultre has been supplying ocean explorers with Memovox timepieces for underwater accuracy. Then in the 1970s the Memovox Deep Sea made its foray into the seas. Now the brand unveils a new piece in tribute to that rich heritage. The Memovox Deep Sea Vintage watch is a classical yet sporty timepiece. The 40.5mm case is inspired by the original piece, but is driven by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 751G that incorporates the latest developments stemming from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ongoing research, such as the large variable-inertia balance, or the ceramic ball bearings ensuring lubricant-free long-term operation. The 235-part movement offers 65 hours of power reserve and the chronograph timepiece offers hours, minutes and central sweep seconds. The dial features hands and markers in “tropic” orange colored SuperLuminova. The watch features a Plexiglas watch glass and is water resistant to 100 meters. Expected to make its way to the retail market just a few months down the road, this is one timepiece water explorers and vintage lovers will want to look closer at.

Watch Stops 2012: SIHH – Cartier Unveils Rotonde de Cartier Cadre Love' Flying Tourbillon

credit: Laziz Hamani © Cartier 2011 In the past six years, Cartier has made an all-out effort to further underscore  its haute horlogerie expertise—regularly unveiling new masterpieces of complexity and distinction. This year is no exception. Here at SIHH, the brand has an impressive array of luxury and technology. Such is the case with this Rotonde de Cartier Cadran Love’ Flying Tourbillon timepiece with its architecturally designed case and dial.  The watch houses the Manufacture-made mechanical manual-wind Calibre 9458 MC with 167 parts and 19 jewels. It offers tourbillon escapement and movement parts visible through the sapphire crystal (and sapphire case back) exposed on the richly engraved mainplate. The Roman Numerals that mark time are built in concave format from the outer case reaching down toward the dial in architectural elegance. Crafted in 18-karat white gold, the 46.20 mm watch is built in a limited edition of 100 pieces, each individually numbered. This watch is at once classical, avant-garde and definitively impressive.

Watch Stops: SIHH 2012 – Montblanc’s Wonderful New Vintage Tachydate Villeret

At SIHH this year, Montblanc unveils a host of truly exciting new timepieces (and writing instruments!). Top among them is the Vintage Tachydate, Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858.  The 43.5mm timepiece houses a special hand-wound movement with chronograph function, small second and date indication. The monopusher chronograph watch with column wheel and horizontal coupling will be available as of May. As in all of the Montblanc Minerva manufactore’s movements, here too, the manual polishing of the chronograph levers to tolerances of 1/1,000th of a millimeter –  the so-called mise en fonction – requires many hours of undivided concentration.Crafted in 18-karat white or rose gold, the watch features a transparent sapphire crystal and case back, solid gold dial, and alligator strap. It’s really an inspirational vintage piece that recalls the classic elegance of yesteryear with today’s technology. It retails for $58,000.

 Other notables from the brand that we will explore later include the more affordable Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Open Hometime Automatic watch. This one won’t be available until September, but is gorgeous to look at in the meantime. Offered in 18-karat red gold or in steel, the 43mm automatic watch houses the MB Caliber R210 and offers chronograph functions and home time. In steel it will retail for about $14,712, and this is really a bargain!

Watch Stops 2012: GTE – Cabestan Unveils the Trapezium Watch

At the Geneva Time Exhibition – which opened today – a crowd formed around the Cabestan booth to get a closer look at the Trapezium. Cabestanis used to doing things differently. This brand is the creator of the Winch Tourbillon Vertical Movement and its designer,  engineer and master watchmaker Eric Coudray is renowned for his realization of the famed Gyrotourbillon. Now, Coudray brings the brand to new heights with the Trapezium, a bold and assertive timepiece.  Named for Euclidean geometry, wherein a quadrilateral with no parallel sides is called a trapezoid, or trapezium, the new geometric inspired watch offers grand visibility no matter which angle one looks from.

Coudray brings his visionary abilities into play in this watch — each one of which is  built individually. He has designed the timepiece to be elegantly angled to the wearer’s gaze, with crowns designed to reinforce the inclination.  The mechanism incorporates a chain and fusee that automatically corrects for the loss of torque in the mainspring and delivers a constant force to the tourbillon, which is mounted vertically. The decorative side panels and transparent back also provide lavish 360° views of the mechanism inside. The watch will retail for 240,000 Swiss Francs.

Watch Stops 2012: Pre-SIHH – It’s Show time!

Today, we start our journey to Switzerland — Geneva, actually — where this week we will cover the Geneva Time Exhibition (GTE), which opens its doors for the third year in a row and showcases approximately 70 exhibitors.

 Concurrently, we will bring you the news from the 21st annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), from which we have been bringing you sneak peeks already in our Watch Stops section. Mixed in the middle, will be some coverage of other independent and large brands also exhibiting in the City of Time. Naturally, while the shows are but a week long, the coverage will span longer. Expect some exciting news.