Archives A Timely Perspective

Time Capsules: Castroneves Salutes Wheldon

Last week Helio Castroneves took the title in St. Petersburg, Fl. This IZOD INDYCAR series driver (and brand ambassador for Ritmo Mundo watches, which has been the official timepiece of the series for the past five years) won the season opening Honda Grand Prix with a new car, new engine and new perspective. Castroneves is known for climbing fences in Turn 1 after he wins – and he picked the perfect location to make this celebratory gesture — the location in Turn 10 that was renamed Dan Wheldon Way. Bravo for him – on his choice of fence to climb more so than on his win!

Castronevs is an ambassador for Ritmo Mundo watches, which we’ve covered several times here. He wears the brand’s Persepolis watch, a bold and alluring dual time zone whose dial reverses in the case. It retails for about $7,500 and is an ultra cool piece.

Off the Cuff: The Bold Beauty of Blacksand

Since just before BaselWorld ended on March 14, I have been wearing a very new watch brand on my wrist: Blacksand Geneve. This brand, first unveiled to the world at Basel last year and covered by Atimelyperspective then, is an interesting one. It is an independent brand, founded by Alain Mouawad – a name well known and respected in the luxury jewelry world. Alain is a perfectionist, a man who will spend months upon months to make something exactly the way he wants it to be – which is why Blacksand is so exacting. (You can read more about the collection, the company background and the brand’s calling here.)

The timepiece I have been wearing – the Uniformity StratoMatic — is crafted of high-tech materials — sandblasted ceramic and titanium. The case itself has a strong architectural appeal with its sandblasted titanium finish and curved sandblasted ceramic lugs that that reach across the entire case. The caseback is marked with “Semper Fidelis” (signifying the brand’s commitment to watchmaking values and excellence), and the color palette of gray, black and purple is soothing and inviting to look at. The light weight of the piece is a little misleading to those not in the know – one expects the piece to be heavy, but titanium is ultra light so the watch is light – also contributing to the joy of wearing it. The 46mm timepiece houses a superb automatic Swiss movement based on a TechnoTime base – coated in ruthenium with tungsten carbide rotor and twin barrels that offer 120 hours of power reserve.

What I especially loved about wearing this watch is its extreme easy readability and luminosity. The two-level dial with bold white applied markers are extremely strong SuperLuminova for superb night reading. Overall the watch is at once modern, bold, rugged, durable and yet elegantly chic. To some, it may seem a bit high at a retail of approximately $14,500 for this version – but one has to really wear this watch to get a feel for it and appreciate its precision, luxe allure and strength of character.

Those in the know about watches may be interested to hear that the well-known watchmaker, Cedric Johner recently joined forces with Blacksand. Stay tuned to see some more news from this brand.

Weekend Sojourn: April Fools’ Day Origins and Riddles

References to something akin to “April Fools’ Day” can be found as early as 1392 – when a passage in Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales refers to a trickery played by a fox on a certain day. Some interpreted that day to be April 1, though others argue this is an erroneous date and April Fools’ Day should actually be in May.

Nonetheless, this odd day is one where – typically – good-hearted jokes or pranks are played on one another amongst friends. Countries around the world celebrate this silly day — from the USA to Japan, Russia, Europe and more – though many countries call it by a slightly different name. Some countries, such as Denmark and Sweden, actually have prankster day on May 1. In the end, though, the bottom line is that people like to have fun – even when times are tough.

So, in honor of April Fools’ Day, here is a riddle –

Which clock works best, the one that loses a minute a day, or the one that doesn’t work at all?

Around the World – Made in Nepal Watches by Kobold

This watchmaker with headquarters in Pittsburgh and a penchant for embracing adventure opens a subsidiary in Kathmandu run by Sherpas and presents two locally assembled watches of unusual quality.

WORLDTEMPUS – 30 March 2012

Elizabeth Doerr

When a Westerner hears the word “Sherpa,” he or she immediately associates it with mountain climbing. There is a good reason for this: the Sherpa caste, at home at the foot of Mt. Everest, part of the Himalayan mountain range, makes its living by guiding tourists coming to Nepal to conquer the mountain. This is a dangerous, ungrateful job – but in many cases it is the best way for a member of the Sherpa ethnic group to support its family.

Watchmakers Namgel Sherpa, Thundu Sherpa and Dale Poindexter in the new Kathmandu workshop of Kobold Watch Company Nepal (Pvt.) Ltd © Worldtempus / Elizabeth Doerr

Watchmaker Sherpas

Namgel Sherpa and Thundu Sherpa probably often gratefully pray to their gods since the day that Sir Ranulph Fiennes and Michael Kobold showed up in Kathmandu in 2008, the latter having spontaneously decided to accompany his friend and the Kobold Watch Company ambassador who has been described as “the world’s greatest living adventurer” on an Everest bid. Kobold was unprepared to climb, and he had not even reckoned with reaching what’s known as base camp (the last acclimation settlement before serious climbers head up the earth’s highest mountain, which peaks at 8,848 meters (29,029 feet) above sea level). He made it up much higher before both he and Fiennes had to turn back; it was then he discovered he was officially bit by the same bug that has plagued adventurers the world over.

The Kobold Himalaya Everest Edition, a limited edition of 25 pieces, boasts a 5 mm dial made from summit limestone that Michael Kobold personally brought from Mt. Everest © KoboldKobold and Fiennes returned in 2009 and made it to the summit, with Kobold repeating the feat in 2010 together with his wife Anita Ugyan, who climbed without oxygen. During the three adventurous climbs, the lives of Kobold and other members of his crew – particularly his wife – were seriously endangered. Only by the grace of the Sherpas did they survive, and in his gratitude Kobold decided to make a suggestion uttered by Fiennes in 2008 into reality and invest in an unprecedented venture: training the two Sherpas as watchmakers and having them run a new subsidiary in Kathmandu called Kobold Watch Company Nepal (Pvt.) Ltd as co-owners.

“These two caught on really quickly,” Kobold’s head watchmaker, Dale Poindexter, said of the Sherpas’ ability to learn the complicated techniques involved in mechanical watchmaking during the official opening of Kobold Nepal on March 26. Poindexter trained them for ten months in Kobold’s Pittsburgh facility.

Made in Nepal

The back of the Kobold Himalaya features an idealized engraving of the mountains surrounding Kathmandu © Worldtempus / Elizabeth DoerrAs manufacturing and crafts only employ 6 percent of Nepal’s 27 million-strong population, it is safe to say that skilled labor is not one of this country’s assets. In fact, Kobold is certain that his venture is a highly motivational one for the people of Nepal, a way for them to imagine a different future. “Newspapers have already written that Nepal, unable to produce even a sewing needle, now has ‘watch movements’ with hundreds of parts. This is sure to greatly increase the confidence of the Nepalese in themselves.”

The “standard” Kobold watch model bearing the predicate “made in Nepal,” assembled in the Sherpas’ new workshop, which is equipped with exceedingly solid, locally custom-made benches crafted from local wood, is called the Himalaya. It is housed in a 44 mm stainless steel case that was made in the U.S.A. The three-handed dial comes in brown or black and exudes the typical Kobold legibility that is the signature element of this adventurous brand. The automatic movement is a Kobold specialty: Caliber K.2651 is based on a vintage Förster movement from Pforzheim. Kobold is the only company currently using this refurbished and improved movement in serial watches. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the timepiece is protected by a sapphire crystal that is also sourced in the U.S.A. Its rugged, understated elegance completed by an alligator skin strap also crafted in the U.S.A. will allow this watch to be worn in any circumstances: on the mountain or in the city.
The Kobold Himalaya next to a manhole cover proclaiming the year 2051; Nepal follows the panchang (Hindu Indian calendar) © Worldtempus / Elizabeth Doerr
To celebrate the opening, Kobold also offered a limited edition of 25 very special watches – which were unfortunately already sold out before the evening of the opening had even come to its exciting conclusion. The Himalaya Everest Edition features a very special dial crafted from a Mt. Everest summit limestone that Kobold plucked from the lofty ground and brought back down the mountain in 2009. A German specialist company located in Idar-Oberstein spent two years ensuring the structural integrity of the beautiful dials crafted from this rock that now forms the mysterious 5 mm-thick face of the Himalaya Everest Edition. Needless to say, each of the 25 pieces is unique in its own way thanks to the natural material.

Time Capsules: Ball Watch Honors Grand Central Station with Engineer II GCT Automatic

Here we bring you what may be the first US look at the newest timepiece to help celebrate the centennial of the iconic Grand Central Station. Ball Watch Company helps celebrate the 100^th anniversary of Grand Central Station (slated for 2013) with a limited edition watch, the Engineer II GCT Automatic. The move makes incredible sense, since Ball Watch Company’s heritage is intimately involved in the American railroad history. The new watches feature 44mm stainless steel cases and house the Automatic caliber BALL 651 movement. It is offered with either a bracelet or strap and offers superb readability at night thanks to 15 self-powered micro gas tubes. The watch also offers a second time zone feature – but does so using Grand Central Time instead of GMT. Additionally, the GCT logo is present on the dial next to the Ball logo, and the caseback features the Terminal’s iconic clock etched into it. Just 999 pieces will be created to celebrate this world famous transportation hub. The anti-magnetic watch is water resistant to 100 meters and features a convex sapphire crystal with antireflective coating. It retails for $3,699 on strap, and $3,799 on bracelet. It should be available in retail stores within a few months.

Commentary: The Many Faces of BaselWorld

It has been just about two weeks now since we have returned from BaselWorld – and finally the watch fog is lifting. The watch fog is an ailment I incur each year when I travel to BaselWorld – previously known as the Basel Fair. It comes from spending 8 straight days working from 8 am until – well – midnight easily if you include the dinners and parties. It comes from seeing more than 100 complete new lines from a variety of innovative brands. It comes from exhaustion and excitement at the same time. It comes about four days into the show- and lasts for about 2 weeks after as I unravel slowly all the trends and all the opportunities that arise during the show.
In short, BaselWorld is a cacophony of sights and sounds that meld together to form the largest, most impressive watch show in the world. This year was my 27^th year attending BaselWorld. While I certainly have the younger generation of bloggers and writers beat by a long shot – my experience can still be overshot once in a while by some retailers who have been attending BaselWorld even longer than me!
While I see wonderful creativity, innovative technology and design, I also welcome the show as one where I really get to spend time with old friends – some that I see only once a year in Basel – and with new friends. Evenings are spent having wonderful mouth-watering Swiss-inspired dinners such as Wienerschnitzel or fondue during small, intimate dinners of just a few. I long ago learned to forgo the huge 300+-people-deep dinners where one yells over the noise in favor of small dinners with watchmakers, watch execs and innovators who are my friends. Sometimes we explore the wonderful city of Basel before or after dinner, other times we enjoy a night cap (or night caps) at the Three Kings or the Plaza. So while the days are long, the nights make it worthwhile.
If you are a watch lover – and I know you are or you wouldn’t be here now – BaselWorld is a must-visit experience. Next year, it happens in late April. Mark your calendar – and let me know you’re visiting so we can meet. Now, stay tuned for more news and product that made its debut in BaselWorld.

Time Capsules: Cuervo y Sobrinos Unveils Historiador GMT

The brand with a Swiss heart and Cuban soul — Cuervo y Sobrinos – does it again. This top-notch Swiss-made brand, with roots in Cuba, is adept at creating classic mechanical watches, and this year does so in a style befitting its Havana 1950’s Havana heyday.

The Historiador GMT is beautifully crafted in a 40mm stainless steel case two-tone cream-colored dial and applied logo offering dramatic retro appeal. The watch offers GMT function (via a universal hour indicator) thanks to an ETA-based automatic movement with 21 jewels and 42 hours of power reserve. The watch features a curved sapphire crystal reminiscent of the 1950’s, with anti-reflective coating, and is water resistant to 3ATM.

A transparent sapphire case-back enables viewing of the engraved CYS oscillating weight. The watch is finished with a gold hued caiman strap. It retails for a cool approximately $3,200. Magnifico!

AUDEMARS PIGUET – 40th Anniversary Royal Oak Exhibition

On Wednesday night at the New York City Armory, Audemars Piguet hosted a black-tie gala to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak, kicking off a free four-day exhibition that is open to the public. Traveling next to Milan, Paris, Beijing, Singapore and Dubai, it is a journey through four decades of the iconic sports watch.

WORLDTEMPUS – 23 March 2012

Roberta Naas

Deftly blending history with art and culture, Audemars Piguet set up one of the most superb exhibitions on time and art to be seen in a long while in the U.S.A. The exhibit begins with the Royal Oak’s daring entry into the world of luxury watches as a bold luxury sports steel watch in 1972, and showcases a selection of the most important Royal Oak watches in history. In fact, the 100 Royal Oaks on display include the very first one – designed overnight by Gérald Genta – as well as Genta’s own personal Royal Oak.

Audemars Piguet brought in watchmakers, equipment to demonstrate the making of the tapisserie dials for the Royal Oak, and built a display in homage to the legendary Genta including a complete display explaining him and his genius. Additionally, to underscore the brand’s commitment to independence, art and innovation, Audemars Piguet brought together extraordinary artists to participate in the creation of the exhibition. Photography, art, sound and film from three 21st-century artists came together in an exceptional backdrop for the display of watches and watchmaking.
“Our goal is to give consumers a real insight into the craftsmanship of our watches and watchmaking,” said CEO Philippe Merk. “And to showcase a journey across the history of the Royal Oak and the ingenuity of our brand – the fact that we think out of the box in all we do.”
Along the sidelines were crisp and alluring photographs of the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, taken by Dan Holdsworth depicting the forests, the night sky and more. Artist Sebastien Leon Agneessens created a forest of organ pipes in sculptural beauty to outline the exhibition – which was designed to reflect a massive metallic rock split into six pieces, each showcasing a different part of the exhibition (the watchmaking station, a video station with films of the crafts of watchmaking, watch displays, and more). A huge visual film was designed by London-based visual artist Quayola that focuses on “The Thinker,” as it morphs from an actual statue into crystals and back into the statue – a continuous transformation of matter that is meant to reflect perfection, beauty and precision – all attributes Audemars Piguet holds dear.

Article reprinted as seen on WorldTempus.com today.

Trend Report: Today’s Affordable Ceramic Watches

photo by Kenji TomaToday’s fashion-forward watchmakers have jumped on the engineered ceramic bandwagon – making affordable ceramic watches that look sleek and cool. Of course, it was Rado that first utilized high-tech ceramic (from the space and automotive industry) for timepieces just about 30 years ago – and naturally the brand continues to be on the cutting edge in this realm. However, many others have their own twists. At the very high-end (not covered here, but to be approached soon), there are ceramics of the ultimate technological extreme (some even mixed with metals and alloys).

Indeed, the ceramic of a luxury watch is typically of a different caliber than that of their affordable fashion counterparts. All ceramic is not the same. Some companies fuse their ceramic with other products, intersperse it with steel for bracelets or create thinner layers of ceramic on their pieces to keep costs down. However, none can deny that the shiny finish of all ceramic makes it a pleasure to look at, and draws the attention of luxury and fashion watch brands alike.

Essentially, ceramics render a watch virtually scratch-proof. Perhaps a diamond may be able to scratch it, but basically, a 30-year old high-tech ceramic watch, regularly worn, would still look brand new today. This non-metallic solid material is engineered to meet very strict specifications. It is created via extreme heating and a subsequent cooling process. It typically has extremely high melting points and can withstand temperatures from 1800 degrees F and higher. It is incredibly hard, durable, light weight, resistant to abrasion and high temperatures and hypo-allergenic – making it a coveted material for watch cases, bezels and even bracelets. Ceramic watches are also particularly appealing for sport and dive pieces because they withstand chemical erosion, and possess antimagnetic properties.

While most brands use ceramic in either black or white, in the past few years, several companies have developed ceramic watches in colors such as midnight blue, chocolate brown, hues of pink and even silver. Portions of this feature, and the photograph, are excerpts from Roberta Naas’ article appearing in the March issue of Philadelphia Style Magazine.